Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

finally time to run the 32 over the pits tomorrow! Im going for welshpool and im just getting all the stuff together

What size/type plates is everyone using for the 32 ? I ask because i know i have to bend the standard size plates cos they are 374mm and the space available at the rear of the r32 is only ~365mm. So i thought everyone was getting slimline but they are the same width :S

So whats the go? people trimming plates a tiny bit to fit ? Getting the 3/4 length ones?

Whatever you guys fits/looks best and is cheap ?

"Whatever you guys fits/looks best and is cheap ?"

at the end of the day its you thats spending the money and its ur car, and ur gonna have to put up with seeing it everyday.

most ppl bend it to fit in.

however, i have seen ppl splicing rear bumper to make it fit, or evern trimming the plate, though i've heard trimming the plate is illegal.

trimming the plate is illegal.. the 'best' way would be to slice the bumper to slot it in.

or even make a bracket that makes it sit on the outside of the bumper..

im lucky the 33 plate cutout is *perfect* :D

trimming the plate is illegal.. the 'best' way would be to slice the bumper to slot it in.

or even make a bracket that makes it sit on the outside of the bumper..

im lucky the 33 plate cutout is *perfect* :(

exactly, my cousin had the same troubles, he got a warning from the cops because he cut his plates, he had to take it back and get a new one remade, splicing is a good method!!!

just cut the 5 mm off each side and you wont be able to tell. add some black paint to make it look normal again and youll have no problems and the plate will fit snug which further makes it look like a factory fit. easy!

you can get 3/4 size plates and they fit straight in the recess...no bending or cutting. Got personalized plates so not sure if you can get 3/4 standard plates(probably not).

yeh you can get 3/4 size normal plates but, but they arnt made out of aluminum or any thing they are made out of hard plastic with sticky stuff to attach them, i think there soul purpose is to attatch them to your front body kit were a normal one would be difficult to fit,

my cousins car is the blue 33, hes got a 3/4 normal plate on it

post-24878-1156906150.jpg

Good to see you've almost got the GTR on the road...its been a while! :P

IMO the Alluminium plates look better than the Polycarb variety, I went slimline on front and full size rear.

Dont cut anything!....just put the plate in a vice as I did below and make a nice clean bend, looks neat and tidy and do'snt ruin anything.

Plate.JPG

hey Lindsay. yeh its taken a while :P good idea there with the vice will do that. Ive decided to get the stock plates and spend the money elsewhere.

I just got back from welshpool- they failed the car. Said there was play in the front steering somewhere (bushes, tie rod ends or something like that) because when jacked up they could wiggle the tyre. really the movement was was piss all.. meh

they were so quiet today i was only car there for 10 mins and all the inspectors had a look over it. Nice blokes but still bastards :D

Haha yeah I hate taking my car over the pits at the best of times!

I actually had a 'roll around on the floor fight' with a pit inspector (in my younger days) after overhearing him call my car a POS :P

Hopefully all will go OK on re-visit, I do not think they can pick you for anything that is not already on your work order from the first visit so you should be OK :D

psi_gtsii - yes they can pick you for things not on your work order. :dry:

sam - thats not a 3/4 plate, thats a 'fake' plate. :)

the real 3/4 plates are literally that, a plate 3/4 the width of the normal ones.

I've got a 'fake' plate on the front my R33. All I did was get a signwriter to make a sticker with the same font/colour and reflective background - the same size as the front bar opening. I stuck it on a piece of perspex.

I've never been pulled over for it in 5 years of having it.

yeah i wanna go slimline/sticker whatever for the front of my car.

with the rear, i stood the plate up on its side, and with a hammer (mini sledge or what ever is heavy) i tapped on the edge of it so it rolls in.

then i done it to the other side. look neat and pretty much stock but fit perfect.

So basicly tap the edge till it rolls in slightly.

Steve

Edited by PHATR32
I've got a 'fake' plate on the front my R33. All I did was get a signwriter to make a sticker with the same font/colour and reflective background - the same size as the front bar opening. I stuck it on a piece of perspex.

I've never been pulled over for it in 5 years of having it.

thats like saying my car had 90mm clearance for the first year i owned it.. never got pulled up for it... doesnt make it any more legal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...