Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

i was just wondering if anyone knew of a place in queensland i can get new parts for my rb20det motor, i've been lookin around and no one seems to be able to get anything, i've even had difficulty getting an exhaust manifold gasket (the one between the head and manifold).I'm in toowoomba by the way so anywhere in bris is fine cause i don't mind the drive. At the moment i'm looking for a rebuild kit, anyone know where i can get one

thanks in advance,

Busta-P

Edited by busta-p
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132177-where-do-i-find-parts-for-my-rb20/
Share on other sites

http://www.nengun.com/

or look in the service center section in the QLD forum here ( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130753 ) someone there would be able to help you out.

hey mate

dan from elite has just rebuilt my rb20 and has been able to source everything that is required for a killer build.

you could do much worse than emailing him what you are after.

i do know that my pistons took awhile to come, but it will be worth it

thanks 83nno so far 3lit3 32 has been awesome and i will definitely be doing business with him, another question i have for everybody is, i have heard of using rb25det cams in an rb20det is there any truth to this and if i use them what sort of positive gains (if any) will this achieve?

thanks 83nno so far 3lit3 32 has been awesome and i will definitely be doing business with him, another question i have for everybody is, i have heard of using rb25det cams in an rb20det is there any truth to this and if i use them what sort of positive gains (if any) will this achieve?

I doubt it would do much (if they fit that is) as they both have 240 degrees on the int and ext and both have 7.8mm lift there is a slight differnce in the lobe centre angle but Dan would be the man to ask for sure :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...