Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, just got myself my 3rd piece of rice gear, some gauges, boost, oil temp and oil pressure. I was told it lights up seven different colors!!!!!!!! WOW

Any who, don't have a clue how to connec them up. I think I know how to connect the boost gauge but don't know how to connect up the oil pressure and oil temperature gauges. I think they are electrical gauges beacuse the only thigns coming out of their asses are wires.

I'll try to get some picture up for all to see and hopefully someone will know what to do.

Did I mention, IT HAS SEVEN DIFFERENCE COLORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

James

umm dont u jus put the sandwhich plate on and then hook up the oil/temp sensors into it and for the boost u jus t peice it into the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line that goes into the plenum? and electronics u jus wire it up as usual (+tive and ground)

correct if im wrong

Best place for the internal illumination on them (after you've plugged the important widgets in that actually do shit) I found easiest was too run wires off the 'dimmer' switch, which your imported vehicle should have after it was complied.

Personally I dont like the bright pretty gauges, theyre distracting more than anything and I'm kind of stupid as it is...

I found easiest was too run wires off the 'dimmer' switch, which your imported vehicle should have after it was complied.

i've owned 2 imports, neither had dimmer switches.

and been in about 6 others, none of which had dimmer switches either.

Edited by mad082

best place to wire to is the cigarette lighter.

Its easy to get too, you probably dont use it much, and it has everything you need: earth (negative), positive and illumination wires.

I dont know why people always say to hook boost guages up to the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, the easiest is to just hook it up to where the stock guage gets its reading from.

There is a small rubber hose in the top drivers side corner of the engine bay that goes from a little box on the firewall to the back of the plenum chamber, just bung it in there.

Oh and with the dimmer switch thing, they are ment to be installed for compliance, Ive got one but the wiring has never been hooked up. Dodgy as.

ok ciggy lighter seems to be a good idea here.....its just that ther's a small button on the gauges for change of color but I don't know if thats also an on/off switch or not. I'll give the ciggy lighter a try first nonetheless

Edited by lingeringsoul

Another vote for ciggy lighter, thats where my stereo's dimmer/illumination is and my dodgy DEFI rip off boost guage is hooked up to ;). Except i removed the ciggy lighter and replaced it with my boost guage, so very easy to connect up. Either splice into the ciggy wires or use spade connectors on your guages and replace the ciggy connectors if you dont use it much. Positive, ground and illumination to come on with your lights, and do as xRHETTx says, but make sure you have a small diameter T piece as the tubing is very thin.

BTW a multimeter/cable ties/electrical tape :P is your friend here

cheers

Evil

Edited by EvilINGT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...