American Needs Help With R34 Gtr

[Street Show]

I have recently purchased a 99 R34 GTR. Now I want to make it the best all around performance car I can. I want it's HP numbers between 500 to 600 (373 to 448 Kw) to the wheels. I plan on dumping a ton of money into it and I figured since they are actually legal in Australia that you guys would have a ton of experience on them.

Thank you in advanced

[AzzurrA]

sorry... what is the question?

is it "what should i do to get to these power levels"?

P.S. welcome!

[rb26s13]

for best advice.. wats the purpose of the car like drag, track, street, dyno, getaway car, racing gf's dad?

arent they legal over there? :\

[Street Show]

Ok if you had say...60,000 US or 80,000 AUD and you wanted the best Daily driver/Track car what would you do...and HP goal is around 600 to the wheel.

And there are about 30 legal R34 GTR's in US

[AzzurrA]

80k AUS...?

i would be like this guy --->

i would send the car over to MINES in JP and say "Gimme the works... and i want fries with that..."

[Street Show]

lol yea but I want to be involved in the process. It's no fun if you don't have some of your own blood on the engine

[AzzurrA]

fair enough.... have a look at some of the components they use though, as they seem to work well together, and perhaps order them and fit them yourself or something?

[rb26s13]

80 grand i umm errrr

[rb26s13]

wanna adopt a son or would your parents like to adopt another

[Street Show]

well from what I have been reading the N1 block sounds like a good way to start and then add the HKS stroker kit...

[r33_racer]

n1....why not go for a nismo gt block? Are they not supposed to be the ducks nuts of the rb26 blocks?

80g...damnit, why spend that on a road car....build a track car 80g ontop of what you have would be awesome so long as you do the work yourself cause thats alot of parts you can get.

Also 600hp at all 4 wheels is alot of power, probably too much for a street. I dont know what the loss is for 4wheel drive but i would say at least 100hp minimum so thats like 700ponies(523 4wkw) at the fly, maybe more!

Edited August 30, 2006 by r33_racer

[Street Show]

I wasn't sure if I could find a Nismo GT block.

As for the money that would cover every aspect of the car...Suspension, new interior and body styling new paint...But mostly will go to engine.

As for the 6oo HP to the wheel that is my max, but maybe 560 to 580hp would be fun

And from people I have asked with a manual AWD you lose 80hp

[maximajim]

Contact RB motoring or XS engineerig in the US.

[maccattack]

Harley,

You really need to take into account what you want from your car. Most GTR's (here anyway) are used as daily drivers. I like to use mine more for track work rather than drags or dyno. I have it set up so I get reasonably early power, but not MONSTER power which would see me with more lag down low. The highger your horsepower requirements (generally) the higher your lag. I have mine built firstly for reliability and secondly for performance. Forged internals would be mandatory for reliability and power. Also if you are going near the track, get a race sump - not a street sump which most of the performance houses sell.

I still use a single plate clutch which is a delight to drive with and has held up extremely well on the track.

I can't stress enough to work out what it is you really want to do with the car before you start your build.

Good luck.

[hicas_posse]

dude ,

start looking at some MOTEC ECUs since you have the $$$ then consider stroking the engine to a bigger displacement.

Bigger turbo (run single maybe? -for bigger top end output)

Edited August 30, 2006 by hicas_posse

[Street Show]

Harley,

You really need to take into account what you want from your car. Most GTR's (here anyway) are used as daily drivers. I like to use mine more for track work rather than drags or dyno. I have it set up so I get reasonably early power, but not MONSTER power which would see me with more lag down low. The highger your horsepower requirements (generally) the higher your lag. I have mine built firstly for reliability and secondly for performance. Forged internals would be mandatory for reliability and power. Also if you are going near the track, get a race sump - not a street sump which most of the performance houses sell.

I still use a single plate clutch which is a delight to drive with and has held up extremely well on the track.

I can't stress enough to work out what it is you really want to do with the car before you start your build.

Good luck.

I agree completly and reliablity is my 1st concern and then worry about making perform well for time attack or track use. I still plan on driving it daily during the summer so no huge horrible laggy turbo, from what I have read the 2530's sound good or is there a better set to go with....I would like between the range of 500-600 hp tp the wheels and thats it

As for being built the GT block or N1 block and then the HKS stroker kit sounds good and then getting it blueprinted and honed. Any advice to make a nice built motor will be appreciated

[Amaru]

If I were building something with that power at the wheels with that budget I would probably do something as follows:

N1 block

JUN 2.7L stroker kit (crank, rods, pistons)

JUN oil pump

9 litre enlarged and baffled sump (CRD in Australia could help you out with that and send one over)

JUN 272 degree 11.35mm lift camshafts

JUN titanium bits for head (buy this and the cams as a package)

JUN cam gears

Tomei gasket kit and head oil feed restrictor

HKS T04Z turbine kit (turbo, manifold, wastegate)

HKS Type R intercooler

HKS Type S oil cooler

HKS duel entry fuel rail

Sard 800cc injectors

Sard type RJ fuel pressure regulator

Bosch 044 pump in tank going to surge tank, with twin 044's pumping from surge tank

ECU of your choise

Youre then going to need some form of gearbox/clutch combination. I am a big fan of the OS Giken OS88 6 speed sequential box, but this might push your budget a bit (the box itself is $16,000 AUD or so) but then again if youre doing alot of the work yourself you will save greatly on labour costs.

Id also drill and tap an extra oil drain from the back of the head to the sump, as reccomended many times on this forum.

But that above combination would be an awesome street package in my opinion and run some impress 1/4 mile times too. It would easily put out over 400kw at the treads.

Edited August 30, 2006 by Amaru

[fsmout]

what he said would be da bom^^...

Also the HKS 2.8 stroker kit with a set of HKS-GTRS turbos would be awesome!! Check out some of the well setup shop cars from japan such as the Mines R34 (my fav & track weapon), OS 3ltr (awesome) and the MCR R34(hks 2.8 + GTRS)...

I would suggest that 370awkw is acheivable with a set of 2530's or trust 517z's but the engine setup, tune & boost levels will be critical...

With a single such as a T04z you can pull 400+awkw easy but miss the midrange of the lowmounts...but great top end trade off.

my 2c, goodluck

[Kozeyekan]

^^^ All awesome suggestions

However, no advice is free, we expect pics when this monster is done.

And I reserve the right to act ina manner that is insanely jealous and cry like a baby if you crash it.

[Amaru]

what he said would be da bom^^...

Also the HKS 2.8 stroker kit with a set of HKS-GTRS turbos would be awesome!! Check out some of the well setup shop cars from japan such as the Mines R34 (my fav & track weapon), OS 3ltr (awesome) and the MCR R34(hks 2.8 + GTRS)...

I would suggest that 370awkw is acheivable with a set of 2530's or trust 517z's but the engine setup, tune & boost levels will be critical...

With a single such as a T04z you can pull 400+awkw easy but miss the midrange of the lowmounts...but great top end trade off.

my 2c, goodluck

The 2.7L will rev to 10,000+rpm on pump fuel which is why the T04Z goes so well on it. I guess you could say it effectively moves your midrange up a few thousand rpm, as changing at 10,000rpm wont make you fall as far back down in the rev range as changing at 8 will