Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Back on the market , finances did not come through.

Hello,

As the topic reads.

I have a set of GTR33 Stock rims with Ventus K104's fitted.

The tyres are 245/45/17 95% Tread(Yes)and Y rated.

I have also a used set of nuts with lock nuts(BLUE).

You can PM me if you are interested .

I am in Campbellfied Melbourne if you would like to inspect them.

Also I have 2 Advans 245/45/17 70% Tread

You can also if you wish call me on 0416176058.

Cheers

Tekin

OK....2 advans/ 4 Hankooks and 4 rims with Aluminium Nuts $1500

Edited for new pricing

can you add some pics plz

Hi,

Will be taking these off my car on Monday 4th Sep.

I can take some pics then and add them on Tuesday.

Cheers

Here are the shots.

Cheers

Ok maybe I should have washed the rims first.......they come up quite good.

1 is slighty scuffed due to gutter..

But as you can see......the tyres are 95% :P

where in melb are you located? do you still have the advan 245x17

The Rims( 4 )Plus tyres are for sale, the potential buyer can purchase the extra two tyres

seperately at that price.

If anyone is interested in the Advans you can have them for $90Each.(SOLD SOLD SOLD)

And as stated I am in Campbellfield ...

Cheers

Tekin :P

Edited: Due to bad grammer and spelling

Hello,

:(

Price drop $2300 for everything..no more no less

If you would like to inspect call me.

0416176058

Cheers

Tekin

Last call....it is at $2200.

Going........ going.........about to go.

wtf i never knew they were worth that much i sold mine for only 1k i got rorted , man i always get rorted

Dude,

They look great on all silvia's and are still rated as the best balanced rim on the track for R33's.

Sorry, if you did not know there worth.

They are this price also because the tyres are nearly brand new(Check the photo out and this is the front.), i would never buy second hand tyres but

if they were this good i would re-considered.There are some poor second hand ones out there.

If anyone is just after the rims,I can sell them for $1500.

Cheers

Hello again,

This is final.........$1670......no more price drops.

For the best balanced rims and tyres....

You pick up.

No more entries after this post. :P

Whats rock bottom cash price for four rims and I need proof that they are GENUINE GTR33 rims and not the heavier cast rogue copy . I'd like four pics of the individual rims inside and out . No cracks chips bends buckles accepted . If I'm to trek from Sin City to Melbourne I don't want a wild goose chase .

Over to you , A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...