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  • 1 year later...
what happened?

Squizz wants to spank a monkey while making funny noises, Nismo_Boy (who is married to NismoGirl) wants to watch the spanking. While hungry6 is trying to have an affair with

NismoGirl, dark is getting jealous and wants BelGarion and Charly to get it on.

Sound right? :jk!:

I'm starting to get a bit scared of coming back to Brisvegas. You lot are sounding more like Adelaide.

*Thread Hijack*

Nice car Jay. Is that a spoiler lip or a complete bumper. Can't wait to see the mods list develop.

do you still have your 4door also jay?

Yes I am keeping the 4 door it's my drive car and also drags

The white one is 95 import 77K it will be exclusivly a track car...no reg/compliance

Front bar is the standard M type factory option ;)

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    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
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