Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all.

righty ho then: ive got an intake pipe that i finished polishing up today. looks not bad for my first attempt ;) but anyway i digress... well the problem is its made of (i think) mild steel and tends to rust fairly quickly, as i learnt when i left it out in my shed for a week half polished.

my question is that when i put my new turbo and this intake pipe that goes with it into my car will it be likely to rust again?

i tried using a clear coat of spray paint but all it seems to do is ruin the finish (makes the mirror style look faded).

if worse comes to worse ill paint it but id rather not let the 8 or so hours (i know its long but im still learning) i spent today go to waste!

any help wil be much appreciated.

cheers. james.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132963-polishing-question/
Share on other sites

We were experimenting with this clear-coat resin last night... not entirely sure how it works but apparently it's 100% clear and seals the finish forever.

Claimed to be fuel; oil and other liquid resistent as wel as being hammer proof :huh:

We did some tests on a few small items; will let it cure properly for 2 days then see the results. If it works; then my engine bay will be given the treatment - sick of cleaning with kero all the time.

clear coat resin is just a polyester resin isn't it? You just pour it over your part and let it run over it to cover it, leaves a even layer over the whole thing. I have done a similar thing just using 30minute epoxy and it worked very well, did need a bit of a sand with some wet and dry too smooth it out and bring up the shine though.

As dan said, a properley sprayed on 2pac type clear coat does work much better than a can, as it uses a sorta similar process to the above one.

ill just keep trying to paint it till i get it right (paint- stuff up- remove with metho!)...

What are you cleaning it with after the "remove with metho" stage prior to re-spraying?

I'm suprised that metho would even remove it.

If you can't get the spraying right, you could leave it unsealed and give it a polish with autosol once a month or so.

autosol? where abouts do you get your hands on this stuff??

also satanic- if your willing to explain of course- will cleaning it with kero once a week or something keep the rust off? or is that for other non corrosive metals?

umm.. im using cheap arse paint- australian export to be exact.. and i used metho before it gets a chance to dry properly and it comes off pretty easy...

cheers. james.

Cleaning it with kero will only bring back the lustre; it won't get rid of "stains" on the metal such as coolant that's caked itself on.

Using the resin protection described above will stop that as it seals the polished finish away from the elements. You'd get away with just wiping your parts with a clean cloth.

NB: Cleaning with kero once a MONTH is ok, not weekly...

autosol? where abouts do you get your hands on this stuff??

You can buy it from pretty much anywhere.... automotive stores, hardware stores, servos, some supermarkets even stock it, check in the cleaning section with the brasso and other metal polishing stuff.

Here's a link to their site.

http://www.autosol.com.au/metalpolishes.htm

It's good stuff, the proof is in the pudding:

gtrr311ae.jpg

umm.. im using cheap arse paint- australian export to be exact.. and i used metho before it gets a chance to dry properly and it comes off pretty easy...

This could also be your problem....

Some clear coats won't look totally "clear" until they have finished drying.

braadz. i dont want to get it done because i like the idea of doing work myself so i can say "yeah, that under bonnet bling is my work"...

and besides. getting it proffessionally done, although it looks the goods, is out of my budget... so yeah..

satanic: are you able to disclose where i can get this resin? if not no offence taken :)

SKY031: thanks for the advice and also- is that your engine bay? looks awsome...

cheers. james.

I'm not sure where that resin came from... one of the boys just rocked up with the kit on Monday night and explained how it worked.

I assume he got it through his work - he runs a tool shop during the day.

I would guess it'd be readily available from anywhere that sells abrasives.

autosol? where abouts do you get your hands on this stuff??

also satanic- if your willing to explain of course- will cleaning it with kero once a week or something keep the rust off? or is that for other non corrosive metals?

umm.. im using cheap arse paint- australian export to be exact.. and i used metho before it gets a chance to dry properly and it comes off pretty easy...

cheers. james.

mate first of all ur prob putting the coats on too thick. u have to let it dry between coats. try doing a couple of thin coats, then let it dry properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...