Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SECUR1TY, similiar as to how I ran mine in.

I basically drove half to full throttle every time I accelerated.

Its first drive was along the sea front that has lots of small round abouts so every half a minute it was seeing lots of load. :D

Basically the mechanic recons that it has a ratio of around 7.5:1 & that the VCT isn’t correct! He spoke to a few guys and they have had the same problem with a rebuilt rb25 with all the mods should have made 300rwkw but made around 180rwkw so the up the ratio to 8.4:1 or 8.5:1 and played around with the vct and cams & stuff like that and put it on the dyno & it made 330rwkw @ the same boost & same tune!

So they have suggested to me that we raise the ratio to 8.4:1 or 8.5:1 & muck around with the head & get it back to the dyno for more tuning!

Does this sound like a solution or what?

Also does anyone know anyone that is making decent power of a ratio of 7.5:1?

Cheers

Alan

Edited by al_r33

The low comp won't really affect power that much. But it will allow you to dial in an unusual amount of ign. timing.

IF the VCT is out it 'could' be bleeding off cylinder pressure?!?!

I would have thought if VCT were out so much as to affect a comp ratio test it would show up with a a crap idle.

BUT.. One concern is the wavy compression results. So that again brings us back to an iffy rebuild. And then the oil going everywhere?!?! WTF.

nar the oil was comin out the oil line for the turbo! plus the car is barly drivable atm eg. wont idel & i allways have to keep the revs up or it goes to stall! but i think that is being cause by a faulty afm or busted ic hose!

but i have tacked down the guy who built it & going to talk to him as to why he would build an engine with a compression ratio of 7.5:1.

Edited by al_r33

7.5:1 is 1980's turbo style.

When the tuner did his thing, did he push it to the point of detonation with boost and timing then pull back for saftey? Just wondering if it's low CR and the tuner didn't go to the edge to see where it was.

That's still only an alternative to what every one else is saying about a really poor rebuild which seems more likely at this stage.

Yer he told me that he did push it to the point of detonation as he said he physically coulnt dial in anymore boost or timing & then he backed way off! It wouldnt even make more power when he would lean it out!

im getting to the point where im nearly over the old skyline!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...