Jump to content
SAU Community

Rear Wheels Shuddering / Skipping

my_gtr32
 Share

Recommended Posts

my_gtr32 Collaborator

my_gtr32

Posted
Posted

Hi,

My R32 GTR has developed a strange shudder skipping feeling comming from the rear when taking off or going around corners on light to normal throtle. Feels like I'm running a locked Ford 9 inch diff or something.

Recently I changed the diff oil to Redline Lightweight shockproof and shortly after this, the problem started. I'm not saying it's the oil or even the diff at this point, I'm just after ideas. It could be related to susspension also. I have fitted Whitline springs, swaybars, and camber kit along with Bilstein shocks some time ago but there's still many original (OLD) bushes there. I thought it might be the lower bushes the skocks bolt to. I don't know what it is just guessing.

Can anyone help???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133307-rear-wheels-shuddering-skipping/
Share on other sites
my_gtr32 Collaborator

my_gtr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can't remember the grade of redline lightweight shockproof off hand, but it's compatable with the Nissan's recomended grade. I think many skyline owners are using this oil in the diff. Its just strange the problem started hapening after I started using it and the pain is, it doesn't do it all the time. I'm having trouble pipointing what is causing the shudder.

What's grade of oil you used? (like engine oil might be 5W30, or 10W50)
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Had a horrible feeling you'd stuck engine oil in there. Diffs need something a lot heavier, like 80W90.

Actually, just re-reading your original post, I now recall a similar problem with my GTS4. Turned out to be a problem with the TPS not plugged in properly.

  • 2 weeks later...
my_gtr32 Collaborator

my_gtr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update, changed both front and rear diff oils to Nissan recomended oil and the shuddering has almost gone away. Will take a few 100 Klms for the oil to work through both diffs.

Be warned using Redline Lightweight shock-Proof in you're diffs! Mine had no problems what so ever until shortly after I used redline. I'm no blaming the oil, maybe using it highlighted an existing problem? Reline lightweight is a 75W140 and Nissan recomends a 80W90 LSD oil. So its a bit thiner. It was causing the rear diff to bind when turning slowly. Like a mini spool diff, strange????

prelude_1976 Explorer

prelude_1976

Posted
Posted

I having exactly the same thing with my R32 GTR!

I had all the driveline oils replaced with Redline oils about 1000km ago and it started doing it 300kms after that.

I think its diff chatter, feels like shudder/slip.

Wil it eventually destroy the diff?

BTW mine feels like it coming from the front, also have cracked bushes at the front.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

if your diff is chattering it's because the oil you used doesn't have the necessary friction modifiers in it for LSD use.

it will wear out your diff prematurely so change the oil for something suitable for LSDs.

my_gtr32 Collaborator

my_gtr32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds similar to the problem I had. It was hard to track down at first. I thought it was from the front too. As the shudder became worse, I was able to isolate it. Try removing the 4WD fuse then apply 1 turn lock when stationary. Take off fairly slow and see what hapens.

I having exactly the same thing with my R32 GTR!

I had all the driveline oils replaced with Redline oils about 1000km ago and it started doing it 300kms after that.

I think its diff chatter, feels like shudder/slip.

Wil it eventually destroy the diff?

BTW mine feels like it coming from the front, also have cracked bushes at the front.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...