Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock R32 GTR Garrett T28 turbos for sale in good condition. Minimal shaft play, no leaks, travelled 80,000km. Selling due to upgrading to ball bearing style turbochargers.

Asking for $1100 for both, as is.

OR:

I can have these turbos reconditioned or high-flowed to your specifications, by adding these itemised prices below, to the above price:

SERVICE - Standard bearings, seals, cleaned & balanced: $486.20 per turbo plus GST.

Steel wheels to replace ceramic turbines: $335.83 per turbo plus GST.

Compressor wheels in any trim, including machining/profiling the housing to suit: $295 per turbo plus GST.

360 degree thrust bearings (for better high boost reliability. Take $90 off the SERVICE price due to not using standard bearings) $323.85 per turbo plus GST.

Email me any offers please.

Will deliver if on the Gold Coast or South Brisbane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13340-t28-turbos/
Share on other sites

Sorry.

As much as i'd like to separate them, these turbos aren't really any good for any other application in single form on any engine, due to their exhaust turbine trim. They will work best together on a six cylinder i'm afraid. I'm sure that other members would agree on this theory.

Of course it's up to you whether you want to spend the extra money to change the ceramic exhaust turbine to another trim so that it'd be of more use in a single application...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13340-t28-turbos/#findComment-257698
Share on other sites

bump...

Surely there is someone out there who wants these...

Anyone who owns an R32/R33 GTR who has peddled their stock turbos just a little too hard, and now suffering from shaftus disintegratus? :burnout:

These would be good on any 6 cylinder for a project...

...in fact i have friend who owns an EA Ford Falcon (yeah, i know! :() which has received the twin turbo treatment in the form of twin GTR turbos on his 4.0L XR6 engine. Built by Tony Rigoli Performance...

any offers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13340-t28-turbos/#findComment-261211
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...