Jump to content
SAU Community

Wastegate, Bov

donut_kng

By donut_kng,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted

I was looking to buy a car recently, one of the cars I had checked out was R33 SII which was pretty stock besides and intercooler. When I was talking to the guy while inspecting the car, he told me how a mate of his had made something (like a plate?) to block the wastegate, as an alternative for a bov, (this doesnt sound right to me) I revved the car it still had the same but slightly quieter bov sound, which was great. I know for sure that the sound wasnt coming from the pod.

Now that I finally have found my own car, I was wondering if anyone knows anything about this as I would rather do this (if it works) over putting on a blow off valve, due to the legalities as well is it being a bit cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133425-wastegate-bov/
Share on other sites
Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

It wouldnt have blocked the wastegate otherwise it would make unlimited boost and popped the turbo (Or engine) in about 2 minutes

Some people remove the stock BOV and block the hole where it used to be with a plate..this is probably ok if you run stock boost but it is still not recommended

The best thing to do is just leave the stock BOV there!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133425-wastegate-bov/#findComment-2472759
Share on other sites
Zas)-( Community Regular

Zas)-(

Posted
Posted

...

hey man,

i had the same thing, yet i actually went to a mechanic and had a plate fitted on my blow off so coppers cant pick on em. the mechanic said everything is alrite it will just circulate inside.. <-- yes but wrong

i drove the car for 2-3 months on stock boost which was fine no stuff up. WHEN i boosted her higher tho it feels like tha turbo was gonna collapse.. so my 2 cents is, if your gonna push da pedal down get a bov

its crap driving a stuffed up car. :O

hope it helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133425-wastegate-bov/#findComment-2475712
Share on other sites
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

The sound you here with a stock recirculating bov is coming from the air filter. Its the air being recirculated back into the inlet then bouncing back and forth between the compresser wheel and the air inlet (air filter). When a pod filter is fitted this noise becomes audible as there is much less restriction/noise suppressant in a pod filter over the stock air box and resonator box.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133425-wastegate-bov/#findComment-2476172
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...