Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi MeshMesh,

I can assure you of two things.....

1) The list of modifications are genuine and accurate. When I bought that GTR it was completely stock, every mod to that vehicle was performed by myself.

2) The quarter mile time is also genuine and I have time slips to prove it. The times were run with the vehicle exactly as stated above.

The one thing that I CAN'T garantee is the power output as every dyno is different, so how accurate a power figure is, is only as good as the dyno it was tuned on.

A few interesting points to note.....

* A good quarter time is not just in the car you drive or how much power it makes but in the way it is actually driven. I am not saying I am a drag god or any crap like that, but I drive fast and hard.

* I actually found out that my car made more than that power figure and that the workshop just gave me a lower figure as he did not want me to expect to much at the track by giving genuine figures. The car actually made 257rwkw.

* I requested the car be tuned to the most extreme point possible and thus the risk I took running stock 32 turbos at 1.1bar. The A/F's still were not to bad though.

* The motor did eventually blow. I was doing some racing out the back of Moorabin Airport and had the car in RWD to even outt a drag against a nice S6 RX7. Three pistons did not survive that run. The car was driven extremely hard for it's entire life and lasted a long time considering it was out doing runs at least twice a week.

I guess those 4WD donuts didn't help!! ;)

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Shaun,

That's fantastic, for such power. I'd be interested to know was this on street tyres? & is there a trick to your drag style eg:

launch rpm?

do you side step the clutch?

Since ICE tuned my car at racepace, the thing is just awesome. Launches are around 5500-6000, but I get wheelspin through all of first gear, admittably I has Nitrogen in my tyres & pressure is around 36-38psi...

I was running some crappy street tyres on the front and some used Advan A032-R's on the rear. I actually borrowed those from Nige at Ice.

I also had my GTR tuned by Ben at Racepace.

I took a jerry can of fuel with me to Heathcote and made sure that I was virtually running out of fuel when I arrived. I then just added a few littres before each run to keep weight to a minimum.

I also made a two wheel drive switch so I could do a burn out on the line in an attempt to get some heat into the Advans. This worked OK, but as the Advans were so old the rubber had gone fairly hard, as it does with old semi comps.

Launch wise, from memory was about 6,000rpm on the dial and virtually a step of the clutch and then some seriously rapid gear changes.

Mmmm, I miss that car. ;)

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
    • Hiya guys,    i’m currently in the process of getting my rb26 built. everything is being replaced with better/upgraded parts or oem when that’s good enough (which isn’t alot lol). someone earlier mentioned to me that i’ll be screwed cause the iron block can’t take 800hp (to the engine, not wheels) which is what it’s being built for.  what do you guys think about this, am I cooked or na? The guy building the engine will also do the mapping as he is “the guru of old nissan engines” here in Belgium. I know the mapping makes a huge deal so i’m not concerned about that.    I honestly he’s talking shit cause he’s that kinda guy but a second opinion never hurt anyone! cheers in advance! 🫶🏻
    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
×
×
  • Create New...