Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i put back a stock airbox on my 32gtr to replace my apexi pods... was all good, had to move the intercooler pipe as it was in the way.. did a test and pop intercooler pipe came off so was running pretty much didnt do anything above 3000 rpm. i fixed it again went for a drive again was ok..

then tonight i tried a hard test and i heard a *pop* so i assumed my intercooler pipe came off again.. but this time it was different.. the idle was dropping to almost 0rpm and the car was running liek sh*t altogether..

so i had to drive home with it like that as i couldnt fix the pipe at the time.. drove it about 1-2km very slowly, mates said it was blowing sh*t load of smoke.. so i checked the oil to make sure nuffin happned to it.. ive tried taking apart the airbox again and re-installing it making sure every hose clamp was on as tight as possible... i turn on the car and again sounded like sh*t but it was keeping idle this time (900-1000rpm) although it was hunting..

what could be the problem? could i have damaged my afm in the process?.. i know i accidently put pressure on the mesh but it jus pushed it in abit, didnt rip or anything, tho i highly doubt that could make a difference since it wasnt the sensor? ive made sure i plugged in the the AFM plugs properly too. please tell me i didnt fark the afm's..

ive taken this airbox on and off liek 3 times now and its pissing me off so bad as its pretty time consuming on a rb26.. so any ideas?

thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/
Share on other sites

It won't be the AFMs but the plugs are caked with carbon. Give it a few decent revs then take it for a drive.

The reason it blows black smoke is overfuelling as the afms are seeing air sucking through but it's lost out the IC pipe. I had similar happen on my track GTSt at PI and melted my rear bumper and taillight just rolling a kay or so to the pit exit. If yu exhaust had been hot you could have suffered the same.

Are you still running the stock hose clamps? What are they, like 15 years old now? Get some heavy duty ones, replace the problem ones first and watch your problems disappear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2479742
Share on other sites

ok ive done wat gtrgeoff said.. basically same problem, tried putting on my apexi pods back and yeah still the same :)

so im 99% sure its my afm now... i looked at the sensors inside the afm they looked quite moist and dark. carbon i assume?.. any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2482164
Share on other sites

Sounds like you've still got a loose intercooler pipe. That'll explain why it dosen't idle / drive properly, and as said the bulk fuel coming out of the exhaust. Happened to me several times when I had the std twin setup.

Did you pull the spark plugs out and have a look at them? Mine were so bad once after popping a cooler pipe I had to put a new set in.

Edited by Morgs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2482174
Share on other sites

Look at watever you had to change since reverting back to the airbox. if it wasent doing this before you changed it then thats where the problem will be. Sometimes however changing things can upset somethign that was about to let go anyway. It does sound like you still have a leak though.

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2482203
Share on other sites

only things i moved was the afm/apexi filters and the intercooler pipe from twin turbo pipe to the cooler. ive made 100% sure that its on :P

will have to try the spark plugs next, im using copper ngk's at the moment.. should i try cleaning the afm as well?

the car idles at 900-1000rpm now doesnt drop to an almost 0. but yeah its very jumpy and sounds liek a rexy on idle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2483571
Share on other sites

Very hard to damage the AFM's doing what you did, but if you unplugged and replugged them then there may be a dirty contact, so give those a good clean. For the AFM I use brakleen then electronic contact cleaner through the mesh.

Sounds a lot like a leak though. Check everything. Being a bit older means a lot of the small hoses can harden and crack without being touched, or just a gentle movement while working on something else even though it was never really involved can crack them leaving a nasty idle and power delivery.

Also pull the plugs and give a quick file and gap, and well done for not getting ripped off buying platinums and crap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2483676
Share on other sites

Also, when I popped a hose on the GTR, and off the cooler too so had some dismantling, I had to give it a real squirt after driving off the road some 800m to get it to stop chugging with all the carbon buildup. So if the hoses are good now take around the block and give it a squirt to get some heat onto those plugs and see how it goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2483705
Share on other sites

wats brakleen?.. do i spray brakleen on the plug and around the AFM, and jus contact cleaner in the sensor?

haha yeah i figured copper plugs would be the way to go from teh 'force performance and induction' section :P

*edit* found out wat brakleen was lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2483753
Share on other sites

wrxhoon - thats wat i thought of earlier this morning, was planning to take off the front bar tonight. good to see i was on the right track lol

gtrgeoff - yeap im prety much gna check every hose/vaccum on that side of the car, ive also bought that brakleen & contact cleaner just then.. hopefully tomorrow ill have a post saying its all fixed

thanks all for you help :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2484856
Share on other sites

a big thanks to all you guys :D ive fixed the problem...

basically i jus got 2 new hose clamps for the cooler pipe, cleaned the afm's with brakleen & contact cleaner, and changed my spark plugs to hks iridiums which came on my car wen imported and i kept (i knew they would come useful one day)

the spark plugs were totally farked haha.. i think that was the main problem

all is good.. except i have a split in the cooler pipe near one of the hose clamps.. but its on the metal so shud be ok for now!

thanks again :kiss::):O:):(:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133777-rb26-problem/#findComment-2487318
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...