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Hicas Removal Problem

matthew0786
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PORTS Proficient

PORTS

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Your better off undoing the lower ball joints, left/right, then undo the two hydrolic lines

and finally the two retaining bolts and drop the whole thing in one piece.

Take it to a bench and put it in a vice (drain the fluid) and unscrew the arms from the body.

It should unscrew from the SS flanges at the end of the body, which you may need to grip while unscrewing the arms.

Once both arms are free, then screw them into the hicas cancell bar, recirculate your hydrolic lines, fit the unit and get a wheel alignment done.

matthew0786 Proficient

matthew0786

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Posted
Your better off undoing the lower ball joints, left/right, then undo the two hydrolic lines

and finally the two retaining bolts and drop the whole thing in one piece.

Take it to a bench and put it in a vice (drain the fluid) and unscrew the arms from the body.

It should unscrew from the SS flanges at the end of the body, which you may need to grip while unscrewing the arms.

Once both arms are free, then screw them into the hicas cancell bar, recirculate your hydrolic lines, fit the unit and get a wheel alignment done.

cool, ill try that. would you also happen to know what size spanner i should buy to crack off those ends when i have it on a vice?

i forgotten what size, im sure it was 25mm. correct me if im wrong. thanks

GTshortie Proficient

GTshortie

Posted
Posted

I had exactly the same problem,

solution:

Went to blair's tyres in Peakhurst to get a full wheelalignment with castor camber adjustments.

Price:

Around $10 to install the GTRGeoff HICAS Lockbar ( Too Happy!)

They got the settings i wanted for the castor and rear camber.

Total bill less then $80. time spend around 1 and a bit

<On the Hoist it was so much easier to apply leverage to undo the bolt it took him to seconds and the night before i had the same problem and gave up after an hour of trying to crack off that stuipd 4 sided bolt (with a shifter/spanner).>

'PS MAKE SURE YOU GET JOHN to doyour wheel alignment'

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