Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/gals

seriously thinking of makeing that tranny "warmer" of mine in my r32 gtst auto redundant. I noticed r33 auto's have an external tranny cooler, was wandering is this enough/efficient for a "stock" ( no more then 140rwkw) r32gtst auto?

Also how do you change/flush out auto fluid? is it just a matter of dropping a tranny hose going into the radiator and waiting for it to leak out, or do i run the engine in P until its dry?

i am just wanting to flush out the old oil and add new oil in(which u do thru the tranny dipstick pipe right?

thankyou!

never run the transmission dry

its pritty easy to do but i suggest you get approx 10L or more of fluid before starting

remove the trans hose off radaitor (after the radiator/cooler) meaning the cooler will be flushed also.

you will need to pump the fluid in as soon as the key is turned on, and i do suggest you get someone on the key.

ok once your all set up with the hose off and in a big bucket, one you dont want to use again get your 2nd persion to hit the key.

the fliud will now be flowing and you should be adding fluid all the time at this point.

also keep an eye on the draining fluid, once you see the fluid change from a brown burnt color to the color of the new stuff thats when your helper shoud key off and stop pumping fluid in.

connect up all hoses again and check your level, adjust as nessesery. if its too full than remove the hose again and crank but not start motor. reconect and check level again.

--------- DONT MISS THIS STEP-----------------

once your happy, go for a spin. come back and check the level again. and your set

and about the tranny cooler idea, yes verry good idea, mount it all up after doing the flush and dont use old coolers (there cheep $110 or so for a kit)

no point.

go into supercheap auto, they sell PWR cooler cores for cheap. i saw one bigger than mine (which i got from tranny cooler group buy) and it was cheaper. the bigger core was $80 and the group buy was somewhere near $118. and you'd get the trans cooler pipes for around $15.

but in the end if you want an r33 auto cooler core, ive got my standard one here >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...