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Car - Landed, complied and registered - $16500

Wheels - $1650 (hmm exactly 10% of car...)

Stereo - $1200

Bodykit - front bar $900 supplied, painted & fitted.

Rear bar & side skirts - $fiance got them as b-day prez from chris, awesome.

Tint front windows and tailgate - $80

Pod filter, and adapter, which i havent even used - $120.

R34 N1 style vents for front bar - $50.

Clear front bar lights, and nismo side repeaters - $120

SO FAR - $20,620. Not as bad as i thought.

Left to do -

Body parts - Eyelids (maybe) and S2 style front grille. its S1 size, but has the holes for teh lights. $500 for both.

Paint job - $2500

TWO TONE. Never seen a two-tone stag, old school. Bayside blue or silver 20mm pinstripe along bodyline, white with VERY light gold/silver pearl beneath it. Whole rear bar and front bar will be the white colour, bonnet, roof and bodyline UP will be Ice green, standard.

Lowered suspension - $3500. Air Bags, 2-way adjustable, front and rear. Was going to go SKs kit, still might, but we'll see.

New wheels - 19/20 inch. Somthing similar to what i have now, but bigger. Maybe a white centre. With airbags, can go a lil crazy. $2500... less trade i hope.

Exhaust - cat back. $700 or so i guess.

LEFT TO DO - $9700

SO... just over $30K for a stagea, one-off bodykit, airbagged with custom two-tone paint, riding on 20s...

Whats in everyone elses pipelines??

hahah this is a rather long list and i know it will be depressing, i added up my aftermarket parts and its all prices of the parts today of which i paid alot more for at the times i got them. it was a quick adding up but around 60k + labour, thats not the car or engine conversion, not the rb26 engine itself, not the gearbox or diff.

just engine mods, susp, brakes, ecu, fuel system, clutch pretty much

i know i wont ever see that money again so i doubt ill be selling the engine setup anytime soon, its gonna be following me for a while into a few other cars before even think of selling it.

the only thing left to do is use it :)

wow Cruiseliner, you wouldn't want to sell it :)

I bought my baby for $16000 Then the guy gave me $400 for dodgy tyres.

It has some fruit..*SAFCII *3" exhaust *18" Ozzys' *EBC *Alpine Media Centre *Two Amps *Two Huge Subs :)

Then I spent:

$1360 for tyres

$41 sump plug (oxfords GB)

$50 Clear side indicators

$70 Clear front indicators

$17,121 Spent so far...

I would like a respray (properly done this time)

Lowering

Wing

Side skirts

mines very depressing also, as the car doesn't look that much different from when i bought it

$200 CAI

$1600 18" wheels

$2500 or so on tyres thus far

$600 front dump + hi-flo cat

$180 platinum spark plugs

$500 Autech spoiler

$600 repair/respray side skirts

$650 tow bar

$1000 FMIC

$1200 TEIN coilovers

$800 whiteline sway bars

$700 Adjustable camber arms

$2000 stereo replacement

$200 Tinting

In the garage:

$1400 Hi-flo turbo

$900 PowerFC

$900 manual console

$1000 R33 GTR gearbox

$600 misc manual conversion parts (pedals, flywheel, cylinders etc.)

so i've spent a fair bit, most of that doesn't include labour either, as some i did myself others i got professionals in.

Car series 2 auto $13k excluding tyres and rego

Mods as far $20K

R34 GTR front, r34 GTR wheels,FMIC, new front & rear seats, susp, exh, manual conversion, r34 brakes, plus more

To finish $5K

Turbo, PFc, cams, Z32

Have only driven the car for one day since I have owned it in 8 months :)

Will be all done for the Brisbane Autosalon ;)

lol, never a sore point (talking money and cars):

mine will be a S1 with under 90000kms and worth around 29k once all tuned and finished, not much more to go for me - almost there, Im at the low end of 28k's atm, paid for everything so Im going to save some $ and fit my goodies myself and pay for a retune of the piggyback ecu's.

pretty much 18k for car and 11k for a long list of goodies:

Dayz special edition Stagea RS V Four, 87000kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player

Clarion amp

Clarion 10inch subwoofer

Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers

Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers

Black Widow 10000 car alarm

New Oxygen sensor

New 400amp battery

Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system

3inch Catco high flow catalytic converter

3inch Dayz edition(?) cat-back exhaust system with quiet muffler

K&N pod filter

Cold Air Induction box with direct air feed

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 10 & 12psi

Apexi 'hybrid' front mount intercooler with custom pipe kit

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

R34 GTT 17inch rims

Hankook K104 tyres, 235/45/17

160 all wheel KW @ 12psi

got ready to install (should receive turbo in next 2 weeks or so):

Slide 250rwkw @ 1bar highflow turbo

Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear wheel

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

Whiteline front castor kit

Maltech front and rear stainless steel braided brake lines

DBA slotted front brake rotors

Im forgetting something I feel..................... :)

then spend $$ on a 4wheel alignment, total flush of brake fluid and gearbox oil, and final retune.

expect a sorted 200awkw Stagea, costing around 29k tops.

Car - Landed, complied, registered & insured - $16,000

R33GTR wheels & tyres- $1,400

Stereo (Nakamichi, Soundstream, MB Quart) – kept from a previous car

DAYZ side skirts - $400 (not yet painted & fitted)

Pipercross panel filter – left over from previous car

Radiator shield & ambient air scoop – self made (currently on loan to Bass Junky)

Clear Side indicators - $70

Whiteline/Bilstein full suspension kit (of course) - $2,400

Tow Bar - $600

DFA, SITC, IEBC, Controller - $450

R34GTT intercooler - $130

Dyno Tunes - $140

Cat back Exhaust – left over from R32GTST

Cat – Magic $200

Split dump & engine pipe (Performance Metalcraft) – left over from R32GTST

Transmission cooler - $150

DBA 400 series rotors - ~$500 (I can’t remember)

Left to do –

Paint and fit DAYZ side skirts - $200

Tint front windows and tailgate - $80

GCG Ball Bearing High flow turbo – left over from R32GTST

Damn, I am not going to add that up, I don’t wanna know.

:rolleyes: cheers ;)

Car series 2 auto $13k excluding tyres and rego

that alone depresses me. i spent 3.5k more for the same thing... but older....

Im hoping to be the first aussie stagea two tone. If not, first aussie stagea with bags. If not, well... ill think of something.

So far, apart from the purchase of the car, insurance and rego, oil and filter, and petrol I've barely spent a cent. Lucky for me, when my turbo blew last year, my cousin had a spare s1 R33 engine sitting in his garage, so he gave me that turbo to use.

$239 - speakers for the front door

$85 - new battery

What I'd like to do in the future:

* amp, rear speakers, sub and new head unit.

* SK suspension kit

* new wheels

* GCG hi-flow, dump pipe and (if necessary) new hi-flow cat

* FMIC

* PowerFC

* extra gauges

There's probably other stuff too, but I can't remember... Either way, it's staying a street sleeper!

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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