Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know how many of you care, but I thought I would let those interested know what's going on.

Car is still off the road. Nothing new there. Sticking with the rb25, no rb30 bottom end for me, at the end of the day it seemed all too hard for the mechanics up here. I am getting the engine rebuild up here in Darwin through a mates good friend. He isn't charging labour so WIN! Motor was stripped down and 4 pistons had melted, the other 2 were damn close in getting there. Ordered parts: Arias 20thou forged pistons, 0.074" metal head gasket, full gasket and bearing kit as well as adjustable cam gears for a little over $2k. Managed to get that price through another mate who works at Indy's and is only charging them at cost. When they arrive (begining of next week) block goes in for machining and everything gets installed.

Car should be back on the road by the end of this month / first week of October. Dale (mate from PF) if flying up to tune her for me. I had a few people interested in getting their cars tuned by Dale as well so he will do their cars and then we will all go to the pub and get pissed.

Dale will fly home and my "f*ken whooooosh" will be back shooting flames through the dual cannons. LOL Or not...

Anyway, so there you go.

Rods and camshafts will be ordered at a later date. More than likely after I move into my new job and earning a bit more cash. Mates rates is saving me around 3k... good news since the car has been off the road since 23rd May :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134435-rb25-rebuild-update/
Share on other sites

the standard rb25 gtst rods are good for about 500hp I have been told

I would take that with a grain of salt personally.

GTR rods are good for 400rwkw no problem, i think some people have run them upto 450rwkw without seeing problems as yet in built motors, but the key there is the rod bolts are the stockers :O

oooOOOooooh f**k yeah :P

R31Nismoid, I will more than likely end up staying with the stock camshaft due to lack of interest. Depends on how much power I get from the dyno and if I am riding the line the decision will be based on what is the safest option.

Is that a 1.8mm head gasket or is my maths wrong? I hope you have a big f**k off turbo to make up for the total lack of response that will cause.

GTR rods should cost around $150-200. I bought mine for $150 and sold them for the same when I discovered my engine already had them. I can't say I was bowled over by people trying to buy them at that price either.

Cams will just help you get the power at a lower boost.

ps, I like your bonnet.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...