Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm rebuilding my R32 GTR at the moment and everything is assembled and looking great but I'm deciding what clutch to use. I've had a HKS Twin plate and that is dead I think the previous owner in Japan took it for a ride so I tried a Exedy Button clutch rated at my HP but failed.

Now I want to return to twin plate or possibly triple. I've being looking at a Exedy Twin plate ( new model ) which looks good also OS GIKENS. After a HKS twin plate failing im not to keen on that.

engine2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134652-suitable-clutch/
Share on other sites

Give jim berry a call

RACE CLUTCH - Jim Berry

26 Gladys St

Stones Corner QLD 4120

Phone: 07 3847 9999

Really knows his clutches and highly recommended by most SAU members that use his clutches, and competitive frieght charges if interstate ive heard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134652-suitable-clutch/#findComment-2502646
Share on other sites

Purchasing second hand clutches worry me? am I tripping

You can buy new plates and parts for the HKS clutches - may be worth checking out prices of this before committing to the outlay of a brand new unit.

Xspeed sourced sprung centres for my second hand HKS twin plate without too many problems. This is supporting abuse from well over 500 awhp. Won't hurt bto give them a call first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134652-suitable-clutch/#findComment-2505439
Share on other sites

depends if he has one on the shelf already made. i dropped in one afternoon a bit b4 5, he had to leave at 5 to go to an opening, but we didnt stop talking until like 5:30...anyhoo he tested the clamp pressure for me there and then, and if he had another 30mins or so was going to set a different clutch face up for me

give him a burl, better talk to him about it then the rest of us :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134652-suitable-clutch/#findComment-2506811
Share on other sites

Can i ask why ud still rather go for a twin/tripple over a single if the single can do the same job? I mean it'll be cheaper, be easier to drive (i saw u do that ubolt when u left my house jboy, im sure a single would make the turn alot easier :() plus with john's clutch's u get his customer service, advice and professionalism, which u wont find anywhere else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134652-suitable-clutch/#findComment-2516505
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...