Jump to content
SAU Community

Drift Parts, Suit Many Nissans (with Pics)

Chris_ca180
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris_ca180 Contributor

Chris_ca180

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Guys,

I purchased some items in bulk some time back, and due to many of my 'friends' backing out of their promises, I am left with a lot more parts than I bargained for.

I've started this new thread to get rid of these parts I have no use for. I was hoping these would sell quickly and I could organise a group buy for any people who wished to get parts in future. Unfortunately there is not enough interest in the parts I currently have, so once these leftovers are gone, there will be no more.

Now selling below cost, so you will find the prices are very reasonable.

These are quality unbranded parts, which (like most parts these days) are mass produced in Asia. They perform the same function as the name brand items which are more than double the price.

I am not a trader, and after all the drama I have had tying to on-sell these parts, I will never become one. So please help me clear the rest of these parts. I have had many satisfied buyers and excellent feedback from the handful of people who have bought stuff from this batch, and I can refer these to you if you wish to confirm the legitimacy of this sale.

3x black polyurethane subframe spacers (set of 4) $75 delivered

Suit: S13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34 180SX (not GTR?)

30x drift handbrake buttons suit most cars $17 delivered!!!!!! (note: only doing mail-outs once a week, I work weekdays, so hard to get to the post)

(confirmed on most nissans)

I can provide some installation guidance on request if required - though install on most is pretty straight forward

I have had some interest already in these parts, but at this stage the parts listed here are still in the box sitting next to me. I will update with items as they are 'sold pending' - please if you commit to buy, please buy or let me know if you change your mind...I'm really tired of returned COD and holding parts for people who disappear.

I prefer bank transfer, but will do COD for the price listed above with COD fee ON TOP. I can also offer paypal for added security and for 5% extra on the listed price.

as soon as these are gone there won't be anymore - way too much drama to even think about doing this again.

Thanks for your interest, please PM me if you require any further info or wish to purchase,

Chris

post-15675-1158899469.jpg

post-15675-1158899489.jpg

Edited by Chris_ca180
  • 2 weeks later...
Chris_ca180 Contributor

Chris_ca180

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Lots of parts still available,

heaps of drift buttons - Will do 5x buttons for $60 delivered!!! for people who wanna make some cash (or have 5 drift cars...)

Chirs

Edited by Chris_ca180
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...