Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Pearman

Hi Guys,

I'd like to hear from ppl that have driven or own an R34 with a Tiptronic gearbox.

I've had different manual cars for 15year. For City driving the idea of Tiptronic sounds good (maybe I'm getting old!!).

How do they compare?

Any problems?

Any comments would be great

Thanks

PEARMAN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13559-r34-autotiptronic-vs-manual/
Share on other sites

Just drove an R34 tiptronic last week, but didnt like it at all. The response time in changing gears under hard acceleration was disappointing. I dont know whether this is normal or not but no bull, it took a good 1-2 seconds for the gear to change. When you change down gears, it responded very quickly. Anyone have any ideas?

Drove one yesterday...very disappointed. Very solid car, but felt very slow after being in a couple of (manual) r33 gtst's earlier that day. Have borrowed a friends 911 with tiptronic and also got bored within an hour. Maybe it's just me, but unless there is a serious amount of power to be harnessed I'm going to fall asleep at the wheel of any auto sports car...

PigB8, i agree fully. Have also driven a friends 911 tiptronic, and yeah, boring.

I think the whole tiptronic idea is crap personally. Its just a different way of shifting an auto box, and from driving the porsche, the gear selectors on the steering wheel may as well not be there! Id prefer to shift an auto box Via its shifter anyway! I hear a lot of people talking about tiptronic systems as if they are some type of sequential shifting manual box, when in fact they are still the same old slushbox!

BUT if theres serious power available then there is fun to be had. Other than that, unless you do mainly city driving and never go for a thrash through the twisties, just get a manual.

Skylines are sports cars, get a manual and get the most out of the car. My 2c :)

I think these companies should start investing in sequential manual gearbox, as the SMG2 is a dream to drive with minimal lag, and do faster time 1/4 mile than manual versions of the car. If you think about it, if it's designed properly, computerised gear change should be faster than human gear shifting, as seen in F1 cars

But yeah, I don't see the point in tiptronic, it's just for auto drivers to feel good, and more in control

what would be the major difference between an auto triptronic box and a real sequential box like the BMW's SMG???

is it with the SMG it does have a manual clutch kit, with master/slave cylinder, and not just a torque converter like in other auto?

yeah E46 is the way to go with the SMG2, I have the SMG 1 and wished it was the SMG2

I don't know about the mechanical difference much, but SMG is basically still a manual gearbox (6spd in m3's case), where tiptronic is still basically auto.

But in real life driving experience wise, tiptronic is much smoother in gearchange, SMG1 is quite jerky if you aren't used to it, you have to let go of the throttle a little bit at the right time to make a perfect gear change. And if you put it to auto mode, where it changes the gears automatically, that's even worse, coz sometimes you don't know when it changes gears, and when it does u gotta try and time when to let go of the throttle which is quite hard. This is where SMG2 solves all these problems, minimises all the lag.

Advantage of the SMG over tiptronic is, it's as good as manual, better in SMG2 wise, and have the luxury of driving it auto style, no need to worried about clutch, or rev matching during gear down as it's done automatically

Tiptronic is smoother and heaps easier to drive, but has a longer lag between gear shifts, especially gear shifting down, this is for a lancer as I haven't driven any porsches with tiptronic, but I know they're bit lazy during launch as you can't drop the clutch with them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...