Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yo peeps, im looking at purchasing a 300zx turbo off a friend to put on the first model rb20det (one used in the sports R31)

I don't know anything about 300zx's really, but another mate reckons that a 300zx turbo (even though bigger) will give me significantly more usable and less lagy power than the turbo that came with the first RB20 engines. The 300zx turbo is a roller bearing one, (or something like that), it also had the numbers '630', on it (nfi). Also, what sort of things should I look for in guaging its condition?

I want to know what other information you can give me concerning this information and regarding 6cyl turbos in general.

He also has the second RB20 turbo for sale off an R32 gts-t, I want to know what difference in performance characteristics there are in case that is deemed a better option.

When posting in response, please remeber that this turbo will be used on the first of the rb20det engines.

Thanks a bunch!

Edited by Blue Dynamite
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135703-300zx-turbo-quieries/
Share on other sites

If I were you I'd have a more thorough look at the turbo itself as standard 300zx turbos are the relatively small T25 size. I'm not too familiar with the turbos on early RB20's but I'd assume they'd both spool up quite similarly...if anything the zed turbo should spool quicker through being designed as a pair. I don't know what the '630' represents, the zed hasn't had upgraded turbos has it??

You need to figure out exactly what 300zx turbo it is off, if its off a vg30dett out of a z32 300zxtt, they are tiny, as they are designed of a lagfree 1.5l motor. The ones people usually use is not off a 300zx, it is off a vg30det(3lt 24v single turbo)which is about twice the size of the above turbo. This is an upgrade to what you have got, but comes with quite a lot of lag. The only other turbo that it may be is off a Z31 300zx turbo, but these aren't roller bearing, but are quite large

thanks for the responses so far people.

Adriano,

well, all I know is that this turbo is considered reasonably large. I think it's the first one you mentioned in the paragraph i'm quoting you on below., because I am pretty certain it is a roller bearing one. (i know it's a VG30 turbo)

The ones people usually use is not off a 300zx, it is off a vg30det(3lt 24v single turbo)which is about twice the size of the above turbo. This is an upgrade to what you have got, but comes with quite a lot of lag.

do you think i would be better off with the R32gts'-t turbo?

remembering that this will be on the first rb20det

If its from a VG30DET then it will be quite laggy. It will come on hard, but dont expect much below 4000RPM

A much better match is an RB25 turbo. I ran this on my old redtop before I blew it up, and its quite responsive.

Also, is the motor ECCS or NICS (I presume NICS). This will effect the driveability of it and any mods you plan to do to it.

Given the above choises I'd go the R32 GTST turbo because they make a good base line - at least Nissan thought so . The TT VG 30 used a T2/T25 hybrid turbo and I'd give that a miss .

The early RB20DET's were a bit breathless and the best mods seem to be as much in the way of R32 RB20 bits you can throw at it . If it were me I'd be fitting the complete R32 head/manifolds/turbo + all electrics loom and ECU . The early engines had the throttle plates to block half the 12 inlet ports and open further up the rev range in an attempt to get some air speed and torque into an engine with small pots and a tiny bush bearing turbo . Toyota did this sort of thing with early 4AGE's but gave it up for better ports/manifolds/cams/CR and tuning . Nissan went to better porting/manifolds / engine controls and a far more responsive turbocharger .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...