Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Found 2 types of pads I am interested in. Have spoken to many people and they all recommend the Endless SSS pads.

However I also stumbled across the SSM series pads which are slightly more expensive. From what I can tell they are very similar pads except that the SSM have very low dust. Supposedly the SSS have low dust as well, but if there is a SSM, then maybe it is not so low after all.

I am looking for anybody's experience with the SSS or SSM and their dust levels and braking performance.

Specs are:

Super Street S Sports

Temperature Range: 0 ~ 500oC

Average Coefficient of Friction: 0.35 ~ 0.43

Super Street M Sports

Temperature Range: 0 ~ 530oC

Average Coefficient of Friction: 0.30 ~ 0.40

Anybody know what the difference in friction coefficient will translate to on the street in terms of braking?

I am looking for pads for the street, with low low dust, not noisy and a good initial bite that does not fade off overly quickly.

I know compromises will have to be made because you cant have it all. My current pads (Formula Ferodo) are great, but just too dusty.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135938-endless-sss-or-ssm-pads/
Share on other sites

well i would say with a lower CoF the SSM will be less effective, not by much, but definately a little less effective. They both have quite wide ranges of both CoF and operating temp. so they will both be good on street, but not so good on track. i've used the SSS and they were good on street. very quiet (no squeal at all, ever) and not too dusty (nothing like bendix ults etc). quite a soft pad too so they wont chew out a rotor when cold.

How dusty is not too dusty BB? My wheels get a tinge of brown dust with my current pads after one day in the city. A week after, they are pretty much fully brown haha! Quite annoying.

Also how were they on the initial bite? ie. did they wipe off alot of speed quickly?

Finally, my current pads have a average coefficient of 0.43, how will the Endless pads compare then? less effective I guess?

Edited by nuffsaid

well it's not just about a raw CoF number. you need to consider the range, and the temperature that it can operate effeciently in.

i really dont know how to quantify dustiness other than to say i didn't think they were too dusty. for example i currently use endless CC-R for track work and they are crazy dusty, and LOUD and dont stop at all when cold.

the endless SSS are a fairly good pad for street/spirited street driving.

Argh I guess coefficients are hard to make a decision by because they operate at different temps like you said.

Best thing to go on is experience then.

BB: in comparison to say Bendix Ultimates how dusty are the SSS? I think the Ultimates are almost on par with the current pads I have in terms of dustiness, except its more of a fine brown than black dust.

Okay just found out my current Formula Ferodos are 0.46 coeffecient with temp range from 0 to 650 celsius. I am guessing the endless pads wont be as good then.

Although because they are cooler pads, they would probably have a nicer initial bite, and hopefully less dust than the Ferodos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...