Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just a quick question! Recently installed my FMIC and now seem to have excessive unburnt fuel attached to the back of my car - only noticed cause its all over my number plate!

Should I have reset my ECU after the FMIC was installed? Will this help or will I need to check the AFM as it was disturbed during the install?

Cheers,

Anna

Will trying resetting the ECU tonight.

Also, when I got the car back after the FMIC was installed there was a ticking noise at idle...not sure if its there whilst driving as I can't here it over the car (noise is louder when bonnet is down too - makes it hard to pinpoint when bonnet is up!). Just wondering if perhaps maybe they stuffed up the vacuum lines when they installed the FMIC.

I had an apexi plumback BOV that was removed and now I am running the stock BOV - only thing was that both BOV's were running together. Just wondering if possibly a vacuum leak could be causing the tick and the car to run rich?

Ticking is not the fan - checked that. Basically the FMIC was installed and all seemed fine till there was a puddle of oil on the ground. Discovered that the oil cooler core had been cracked when they remounted it.

Few days later - new oil cooler installed and oil change done - when I picked it up the ticking noise was there! then noticed car was running really rich. Not sure if its a coincidence or all related!

Ticking sound seems to be coming more from the bottom end of the engine than the top. Really don't want to take the car back to the workshop as it seems to come back with something else wrong every time I go there.

All this from a FMIC being installed .... aaarrggh

could also be a fan belt has started to tear. i had that problem. at idle you could hear it tick, but went away a bit with some more revs. the backing of the belt was coming off and i had been too lazy to change it. once it started doing that i changed it.

Yep constant tick... can't hear it once underload, but could still be there. Doesn't seem to get more frequent with revs... Not sure what side its coming from as it's only really loud with the bonnet closed.

could also be a fan belt has started to tear. i had that problem. at idle you could hear it tick, but went away a bit with some more revs. the backing of the belt was coming off and i had been too lazy to change it. once it started doing that i changed it.

hmm will check that also tonight! Just bugging the crap out of me cos the car was quiet as a mouse until the oil change and oil cooler being replaced!

Thanks!

hmm will check that also tonight! Just bugging the crap out of me cos the car was quiet as a mouse until the oil change and oil cooler being replaced!

Thanks!

I remember first lifting the bonnet on a skyline with 40,000kms on the clock and thought that the lifters were stuffed but it was just the injectors. But i have noticed that the injectors are really loud on RB motors. If it is running rich all of a sudden it may be just the injectors are working harder to keep up with more air flow going in the motor with your new FMIC or something controlling your mixture is stuffed! Hows your fuel consumption per tank? How many kms are you getting now??

You could always just lighten your right foot!!! :angry::)

I remember first lifting the bonnet on a skyline with 40,000kms on the clock and thought that the lifters were stuffed but it was just the injectors. But i have noticed that the injectors are really loud on RB motors. If it is running rich all of a sudden it may be just the injectors are working harder to keep up with more air flow going in the motor with your new FMIC or something controlling your mixture is stuffed! Hows your fuel consumption per tank? How many kms are you getting now??

You could always just lighten your right foot!!! :angry::)

Are you implying I drive with a heavy foot Wayne? Shhhh dont tell anyone!

Car was quiet until they stuffed around with the oil cooler and the oil change. They put a stupid coopers filter on it so I have bought a Ryco to replace it and I putting new oil in again!. The FMIC had been in for a few days without any issues and I got 420km out of a tank.

Since the oil and cooler I have been getting 370km out of a tank. Definitely not injectors as the sound is towards the bottom of the car. Dad is looking at it tonight so hopefully will have an answer!

Fifty kms difference to a tank sucks!!! Hope you can get that fixed, Kasey and I both get around 460-470kms to a tank. I will be interested to see if my fuel consumption changes when my FMIC is fitted, hope it aint that bad!! :):(:(:angry:

Edited by DJ Brave

Really dont think its the FMIC .... Car only started playing up after the Oil change and oil cooler replacement... Just though it might have been a combination of things....

And I want photos when your FMIC is in!

OK.

1) The tick is probs just the injectors as most rb's are loud as mention before. (you should here my 550cc RX7 injectors,twice as loud as the stockers were)

2) The excess fuel could be just because you are now pushing more air into the motor due to the intercooler upgrade which was also mentions above.

3) If you have a boost leak your car on boost will runn very rich as the ecu will think there is more air going into the motor than there really is.

So your best bet would be to check for leaks 1st then if none are found do an error check on the ecu and see how that goes. Code 55 is all clrear.

Hope this helps.

:angry:

Edited by RedDrifter

Thanks for the ideas guys... just went and picked up the car with new tyres and the Tick is now a different sound.... starting to think that when they hosed down the engine after the oil cooler was changed that possibly affected one of the bearings in the pulleys or the belts.... the tick is not as loud now and the frequency keeps changing but definitely sounds like coming from the bottom pulley...

Will get the stethoscope thingy out tonight and have a listen... well dad will anyways! As for the fuel... dads taking it to work tomorrow to see what codes get thrown up...

Cheers,

Anna

fuel problem solved... was the way the workshop reconnected the vacuum lines .... :)

Ticking noise ended up being the pulley. Off to Nissan to get another!

Thanks for all the input guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...