Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Im looking at starting mods to my 33GTST and im contemplating Turbo back exhaust, FMIC and boost controller.

Was looking at Justjap's range, a Trust Intercooler kit is $1,299, where as a JJR Type 2 Intercooler kit is a mere $550.

What are the main differences here? I dont really need anything super duper but I don't want to buy crap either.

And I was also looking at the X-force stainless steel turbo back system. Anyone fitted that before?

Sorry if this has been asked a billion times before (which im sure it has)

Edited by Lachlan33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136083-jjr-intercoolers-from-justjap/
Share on other sites

I have just had one of the JJR Type 2 intercooler kits fitted to my R32 GTS-T and the quality and fit of the kit is outstanding.

The piping and clamps are of very high quality and they dont use the tiny weak clamps that some other kits on the market do.

The cores themselves have been proven in applications exceeding 300rwkw so for the majority of vehicles they are an excellent choice.

I will post a pic later tonight if I have a moment.

Value for money? unbeatable - Plus the owner Steve is on SAU under the username 'Just Jap' and they offer most of their products to SAU members at a discount.

Would the front bar of a S1 R33 need altering to fit a 600x300x76 intercooler? $550 for a type 2 kit seems very reasonable, especially if the IC actually does a decent job.

How much am I looking at for fitting? If I can get away without hacking up the front of the car then id be happy.

Would the front bar of a S1 R33 need altering to fit a 600x300x76 intercooler? $550 for a type 2 kit seems very reasonable, especially if the IC actually does a decent job.

How much am I looking at for fitting? If I can get away without hacking up the front of the car then id be happy.

Any 600 x 300 x 76mm intercooler on an R33 GTS-T will require some trimming to the front bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...