Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, just joined this forum and love it.

ill be quick and to the point. I REALLY NEED SOME ADVICE

ON THIS ISSUE!!!

make it simple:

I wanted a skyline, i bought one today (after looking for 5 months).

Its mad s2 gtst r33.

my problem is i need insurance! once again we are getting battered by the insurance companies trying to shove it up our ass!

Could someone please give me advice on what insurance company i should go to in vic?? and wat type?? im worried about the car getting stolen!!! Is it common 4 r33 to get stolen??

Or should i get a sik ass satellite navigation alarm???

not really worried about accidents, so i am looking at full or third? suggestions??

im 22 m, and have had no insurance b4!!!

thanks

p.s i have already read the thread on famous insurance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/
Share on other sites

Champinco, I owned an R33 GTS-T before my GTR, and that was insured through Just Cars. I paid $1299 p.a. and was rating one. (I'm 28)

When I changed over the car Just Cars offered to swap my insurance over from the 33 to the 32 with no more cost. But they wouldn't insure it for market value, only $33,000.

So now I'm with Famous which cost $1720 p.a. and they've insured it with an agreed value of $37,000 and I get a free windscreen if I need it and a few other things.

Basically, shop around - there's not a hell of a lot of companies out there that will touch a Jap import, but depending on the cost I'd go the full comp for piece of mind, you'll need a good security system (that's compulsory with any insurance), but I don't think you need to go Sat Nav.

Anyway, you'll probably end up paying at least $35000-4000 I'd think considering you've never had insurance.

Lastly I had my R33 for 2 years and never had anyone attempt to break into it, the only thing was someone snapped off the Nissan badge thing covering the boot lock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/#findComment-267042
Share on other sites

im 22, average driving record and paid 1428 for full insurance. thought i was in heaven then i got another bill from the bastards for 428, but still good insurance for 22.

PHOENIX INSURANCE BROKERS P/L

CONTACT: KEITH COLLINS

TEL: 08 9367 7399

Established in WA for over 14yrs

Competitively priced comprehensive cover

for imported vehicles

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/#findComment-267727
Share on other sites

yea try famous and classic cars in WA.... I'm in Syd and I'm 20 with a 40% no claim paying $2700. You'd have to expect to pay over $3000. I was expecting to pay $6000, then just when my car got into Aust I found this insurance. But I was only going to get 3rd party property and get a car com or quik tracker. I just had a crash, stuffed my tail shaft but I'm fixing it myself for about $1200 using second hand parts. I got insurance and i'm not even claiming cause the excess is over $1000. I was only worried about it getting stolen.

Yes I guttered it. lets just say insurance won't cover $8000 rays mags. So either way I'm ****ed!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/#findComment-271301
Share on other sites

yes - i'll be getting tracking on my GTR.

if you haven't had insurance bfore, hold on and prepare to be ass raped. Call famous, try to speak to Robin... do it ASAP dude, you dont want the thing to be stolen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/#findComment-271784
Share on other sites

v-meister:

do u think its is worthwhile getting quiktrack (on a r33 gtst) and not pay full comprehensive, and only get 3rd party. or do u have both full comprehensive and quiktrak?

im tossing up what i should do with insurance. im only worried about the car getting stolen! do they get stolen often? i thought they were hard to get into. im from the west in melb. no one will touch it around my area but when i go out, to the city its a diff story.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/#findComment-272930
Share on other sites

Champinco, I've heard that in Sydney R33s have become more of a target. I have an S15 actually but it is comprehensively insured as well as fitted with Quiktrak. I would personally probably get full insurance anyhow (as I'm pretty risk averse). Insurance is a killer but I guess that's the way it is now. As for Quiktrak, it gives me piece of mind so to me, it's worth the money.

Good luck with the decision

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13627-please-help/#findComment-272947
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...