Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im selling my 94 model sedan,reluctantly. .Ive owned it for 2.5 years and the previous owner had it for 3years.I have done only 10,000ks in that time and also the previous owner only did 8000k per year in it in there ownership.

Engine RB25DET done only 85,000 k with timing belt changed 1500k ago

Oil changed every 4000k and filter

HI flow turbo by ats with to4e wheels in it

HKS stainless dump pipe into 3' pipework,hi flow cat and trust muffler

Split fire coils

Oil cooler and remote oil filter relocation kit

Power fc computer

turbosmart manual gated boost controller ( did have electronic but couldnt get it running right on the dyno)

Micks metal craft cooler 600x300x76and aliminium piping

GFB BOV modified to plumb back

Apexi power intake filter

excedy heavy duty single plate clutch

040 intank bosch pump

Oil catch can

Interior

GTR front seats

Nismo 300kph dash !!! ( Hard to get)

Turbo timer

Genuine floor mat set

apexi EL boost gauge

All the usual mod cons air ,steer,windows etc

M80 mongoose 3 point alarm with immobilisor

Exterior and suspension etc

Genuine Borbet 17'' wheels with 235 45 17 tyres

tein coil overs

Calsonic strut brace

Body is in very good condition

DBA kangaroo paw disc brakes slotted on the front with metal king pads and standard rear.

there will be spares thrown in .

The car has been raced only a few times at willowbank but hasnt been since the turbo etc was done.It ran 13.7 @109mph on the origanal turbo(have time sheet

The car hasnt been thrashed to a point to where something major would go wrong even though it has been race at willowbank.

car comes with rego and roadworthy with the spares thrown in as i wont need when the car goes.There is probably things that i i have forgotten to list.

post-25260-1159688428.jpg

post-25260-1159688692.jpg

post-25260-1159688858.jpg

post-25260-1159689515.jpg

Edited by R334door
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136422-for-sale-r33-turbo-sedan-with-pics/
Share on other sites

go the 4 doors haaha i've got one, if u wanna sell the apexi pfc seperatly to lower the price let me know, or if a potential buyer 4 the car doesn't have enough $ ...i'd like it 4 the right price (if so does it have hand controller?)

go the 4 doors haaha i've got one, if u wanna sell the apexi pfc seperatly to lower the price let me know, or if a potential buyer 4 the car doesn't have enough $ ...i'd like it 4 the right price (if so does it have hand controller?)

Yeah i does have the hand controller but sorry not selling it off the car.I got it when the power fc's first started to catch on so i paid a dececnt price for it 2 years ago.

  • 2 weeks later...

I can vouch for this car, its a reliable weapon. The only things ive seen go wrong with this is pipes popping off and thats only because he forgot to tighen them, been in it many a time and every time we take it out its like the best rollercoaster its quick handles awesome and its a solid ride not to mention. chris never abuses this car, in fact it would be hard to say which he loves more the 4door or his miss's (its not out of the ordinary for him to spend 1 to 2 days detailing his car on a weekly basis, then go on and continue to improve nitpick the entire car).

Free Bump Chris and good luck on the sale mate

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...