Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a R34GTT engine in my R32GTS-T, just got it started, problem tho, when car is cold it runs fine, no problem at all, except that the temp gauge doesnt work, thinking it could be that the engines sensor using other data then the standard one. Now when the car gets warm, it idles perfect, but when you floor the pedal, and as soon as the car comes into boost it starts to run bad, like on 4 or 5 cylinders, same happens if i pull out the temp sensor for the Ecu, just get higher idleing then. ive checked the spark plugs they seems fine, anyone got a tip on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136669-varm-engine-runs-bad/
Share on other sites

well firstly on the temp gauge thing..

there's 2 temp sensors.. one for the ECU and one for the gauge

if you follow the upper radiator hose into the engine just in front of the intake manifold you will see 2 plugs. are they both plugged in?

now as for the "running bad" that you describe.. i can suggest to check the following common things that cause missing like that

- coils (may have a faulty one or may have a crack on one of them)

- air flow meter (may have a worn contact in it or it might not be plugged in properly!)

best of luck

Warren

yeah they are both plugged in, i tried to earth the one for the temp gauge and it went to the top, if i check the plug for the gauge it has a small +voltage when not connected but when i connect it to the sensor i get nothing when i check with volt meter.

i checked the coilpacks, they look as good as new, anyway to test em?

gonna check wiring on the the Afm, i checked the soldering for the connector but it seemed fine

for the connector, you have to check inside the AFM

you can open it up and ckeck the joints that exit the AFM. there are 4 solder joints that are known to fail over time

also, the coil packs can sometimes look ok but have a fine hairline crack. try covering them with silicone or epoxy before putting them back in

cheers,

Warren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...