Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett 2860r-7 Or T517z 8cm For Gtr

arrow

By arrow,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

arrow Enthusiast

arrow

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I will be updating my standard turbos on my gtr. it will be a street/track day car and it will have all the usual mods cams, injectors, pump, air flow meters etc. Want around 330-350rwkw with the least amount of lag possible.

Have heard the t517z can make good numbers and is more responsive than the garrett turbs. I know that they are not ball bearing or water cooled, but is it a real problem?

Hard to find any results (using the 8cm turbs) with the trust turbo's not many people using them.

In the latest HPI mag it was said the T517Z will easily make 330rwkw on 1.3bar on a stocker. I dont think the garrett 2860 will make that power with the same boost and with more lag, correct me if im wrong.

So which is to be, let me know your opinions.

Also will the hks split dumps bolt onto the trust turbos?

Thanks guys.

cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've seen a T517z I think with the smaller housing's run 370rwkw's on 1.8bar, engine was built, big cams ported heads etc...

Forgot to mention that on this engine they were laggy coming in at around 5,000 - 5,500rpm

Edited by cameron
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

Hello Arrow,

You need to read the RB26 Turbo Upgrade thread to increase your knowledge.

GT2530,s with Mods and supporting mods get you Approx. 310AWkw's which is around 360RWkw's.

This with no Engine upgrades.....just Tomei Pncams 260 with 9.15 lift.

I have then on mine with HKS Dumps and full spool is around 4500RPM.

These are the only turbo's you should consider for track-street performance.

They are rated at 350HP each.

I can get a price on these for you if you like.

Cheers

Tekin :angry:

PS .So answer to your question.....your statement is incorrect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • Kinkstaah
      First time Skyline owner

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • Kinkstaah
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • GTSBoy
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...