Jump to content
SAU Community

Water pump and belts

JimX

By JimX,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I've done a search on water pumps, and it seems that at the 100k km service it's a good time to change the water pump. I'm just thinking though, why not just wait until it starts leaking? That is the normal sign that the pump has worn out and needs to be replaced. It should be good for a few hundred km after that so you shouldn't have to worry about being stranded anywhere, once you realise that it's leaking then just top up the radiator and replace the pump at the next opportunity.

Is there any downside to this? I had a leaking water pump on my Commodore which I noticed after it started leaking but I drove it several hundred km before I got it fixed under warranty.

Also, when my alternator belt broke on the Commodore, I noticed afterwards that it looked very worn out, and was all cracked and missing about half its teeth! If a belt "looks" ok, I'm thinking that it shouldn't need to be changed. (incidentally, it broke when trying to jump-start another car. The extra strain on the electrical system did it)

I ask all this obviously because my car is coming up to the 100k mark, and I don't want to go overboard replacing things that I don't have to at this stage. For all I know some of them could have been replaced along with the timing belt a couple of thousand km before I bought the car. For example, the Commodore's alternator belt had done about 80000km, and the Skyline's belts look a lot better than it did despite having more km on it. I'm pretty sure they've been changed at some point previously.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13718-water-pump-and-belts/
Share on other sites
Darker Enthusiast

Darker

Posted
Posted

Wish I had the luxury of chosing to replace my water pump. It went just after 100k, and went quickly. I lost about half my coolant on the way to the mechanic, which apparently can happen (I always thought they leaked slow)

So if its working, dont worry about it, but when it stops, get it done ASAP.

My 2c

Brody Experienced

Brody

Posted
Posted

My bearings seized and smashed into my radiator. Took out all belts, radiator, balancer and a few other things i can't remember,

It went round 90k, and the belts were changed by another owner at 70 or so. If he had of paid another $114, i wouldn't have spent 1500. Though at least im running with a brand new gtr radiator now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...