Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok sorry but i have to

Wikipedia - "A naturally-aspirated engine or normally-aspirated engine (or "NA" - aspiration meaning breathing) refers to an internal combustion engine (normally petrol or diesel powered) that is neither turbocharged nor supercharged."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naturally-aspirated_engine

Enjoy the drive - "An engine that does not feature forced induction. In a naturally aspirated engine, air flows into the combustion chambers at a rate that is equal to or less than atmospheric pressure (usually less than atmospheric pressure, due to restrictions in the intake tract)."

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/glossary/parse.asp?id=8420

Smart Plugs - "* Artificially Aspirated: supercharged, turbo charged "

Bioethics website - "Need all nations agree on this definition? Or is it not more likely that some cultures will accept cortical death while others will demand brain-stem death and yet others will insist that a patient is still alive so long as his heart is beating, even though his entire brain is gone and he is artificially aspirated,"

**So being on a respirator is articially aspirated apparently

http://www2.unescobkk.org/eubios/bfp/BFPFL.htm

These are just too name a few... Please go ahead argue with the world- Mate you are wrong admit defeat. There is no matter of opinion fact is fact..

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what the hell have i done!!!!!!

while i enjoyed reading the said view points im leaning towards not bottling just yet so any ideas that are cost effective and work.

3L bottom end yes is very interesting i even went as far as buying one and getting it ready to put in. i ended up keeping the 25 because after see her evolve im a bit in love with her. and by all reports the 3L bottom ends just don't rev as hard as the 25 ends.

so does this mean that without opening her up i've done as much as i can.

Just to add to this whole NA shitfight......

NA engines draw in their intake air under their own steam.... usually it's "Natural Air"

Turbo/Suprcharged engines have a similar "Natural" charge of intake air..... just more of it at once.

Hence if there is more air in there...... there is also more oxygen = more power (tuned correctly of course)

Nitroused engines usually draw their intake charge into the engine "Naturally".... ie. without assistance from any blower of any sort, so the amount of air/gases is the same as a "Naturally Aspirated" engine

The difference that makes an nossed engine not NA.... is that the intake charge it has drawn into the motor is anything but "Natural"...... it has been manipulated to contain more oxygen, and therefore is not "Natural"

So for my money..... nossed engines may indeed draw in their air "Naturally"...... but that's not all of it. They're not drawing in natural air, so they're not naturally aspirated.

nitrous or N2O doesn't replace the fuel, it replaces the air

as in its a richer source of oxygen

(or at least i thought so)

so in that case, you are getting more oxygen from a bottle in the car, making the oxygen delivery to the combustion process "unnatural"

for those interested i just bought a set of 440's to go into the silva just have to get them cleaned and flowed and in they go. they off to get the shit tuned out of it then to willow bank to see what sort of quater she can do.

tuning is still going to take a while so for anyone out there with any ideas of what else to do please keep them coming.

didn't want to under do the injectors nothing worse than running out of fuel. went to 440's from the word go so that i don't have to upgrade for a while.

i went the wolf because thats what was recommended to me. spoke to a few people and they all seemed to rate them. took a while to get right but once it was i couldn't be happier it really pulls hard now.

damn that hand controller is ugly though. keep it in the glove box!!

3 litre bottom end is where it's at.... sacrifice 1000rpm for lots of torque, more lower in the revs too.

What compression you at?? Shave the head a little??

thats it, the rev's you lose wont matter, as you may lose the ability to rev that extra 1000rpm or whatever, but the power you would make that 1000rpm later, you will be making more of it with more than 1000rpm lower...

besides... get it all balenced and set up properly, sacrifice the $$$ and get the RB30 block to rev just as high and make HEAPS more power :laugh:.

  • 2 weeks later...

LMAO @ the nitrous debate! :P

A few people touched on the correct understanding of the product.

Slip introduced the very helpful concept of 'supercharging'. Supercharging as we commonly know it has 3 sub classes: 1) The old school GM 6/71 blower and its huge varitey of spinoffs, 2) the turbocharger, and 3)nitrous oxide. Of these, the blower and turbo are both forced induction (FI), while nitrous oxide is chemical supercharging.

All 3 forms of supercharging have one and only one purpose in mind... Give the engine more oxygen. The more oxygen an engine can take into the cylinder each intake cycle the more fuel can (and must) be added to burn with it.

The turbo and blower compress normal air with an oxygen content of 21% by 1, 2 or even more times its original volume and stuff it into the cylinder allowing you to use your chosen method (EFI/carbies/?) of introducing a matching ratio of fuel.

Nitrous of around 33% oxygen, being stored under pressure as a liquid, changes rapidly back to gas once introduced to the intake tract. This action chills the rest of the intake charge also, hence making it far more dense than before, hence even more room for more air and nitrous exists! Once again simply add the correct amount of fuel to burn with all that extra oxygen!

:laugh:

Il be keeping an eye on this thread as I cant wait to se what you run down the quarter with this car and also id be very interested to know what you end up getting at the wheels when you got it all tuned up and going how you want it to..

For an NA Silvia i must say that in my opinion 170rwhp is quite impressive!! Id be happy with that in my r32 GTS thats for sure..good stuff

BTW, it always seems that at the start all interesting and good NA power up posts get hijacked by all the NOS crap... Not everyone wants that sort of power,its good for pure drag cars and for bragging rights and thats about it in my view. I personally prefer a car thats quick in any situation on the road and on the strip.. thats my 2cents anyway..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...