Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I got a mate with an S15.

His mods are --> Pod, Cat Back, Boosted to 10psi by replacing one of the factory hoses (was like that when he bought it), Boost gauge plumbed in before the plenum.

Anyway, he reckons that it seems to be spiking 3-4psi on gear changes, and thinks his stock BOV is causing it, and thinks he might need a new one.

Is that possible? or impossible?

It doesn't sound quite right to me.

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138022-bov-causing-spiking/
Share on other sites

It is caused by the free boost upgrade he's done. ie. removed the restrictor in one of the factory hoses. It seems normal to me. When I did the same thing to my s15, on the dyno it showed a peak boost spike of 12psi. It should be safe but he can run it on a dyno to check a/f just in case.

where you have the gauge hooked up from won't cause the spiking. the best place to have it running from is actually the wastegate hose. that way you actually see what boost the turbo is running, not just what is going into the motor. things like the intercooler add restriction, so the plenum may see 10psi, but the turbo may be boosting up to 12psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...