Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems With My Line.

dacow

By dacow,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dacow Proficient

dacow

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I seem to have a problem with my S2 33 GTS-T. The Bosch 040 in tank suddenly has gotten REALLLLLLLLLLY loud. It's never been this loud before and only seems to be getting louder. Previously to getting it tuned (3 weeks ago), you couldn't hear it at all. It got tuned with new injectors and I'm assuming the PowerFC is asking it to flow more so it's louder. Loud being the whiney noise you hear when it works.

The car cannot boost at the moment. It was fine after the tune, however I took a drive up to Newcastle and on the way back it started spluttering when I boosted it. At first I thought it was the clutch slipping so thats been changed for a new item. Now it's still doing it. Basically on stock boost or any boost, the car runs fine but when it tries to boost at 4-4.5K rpm it starts to backfire, and the engine cuts in and out. The same feeling you get when you hit redline except it sounds like it's backfiring. Doesn't matter what gear it is, as soon as it starts to boost same thing happens.

Does anyone have any ideas or questions which might enable me to sort it out? The only thing I can think of is the fuel pump? It was boosting fine after the tune. Two days after the tune I took it to Newcastle. It's since been off the road due to me waiting for the clutch and installation and now it seems the problem is still there.

Any points would be greatful. I'll be taking it to a workshop soon but just interested to see if anyone has anything to add :P I only drive it back and forth from the station but I'm worried more driving could potentially cause damage to it.

Thanks all for reading :no:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/138113-problems-with-my-line/
Share on other sites
Bluprint Veteran

Bluprint

Posted
Posted
The car cannot boost at the moment. It was fine after the tune, however I took a drive up to Newcastle and on the way back it started spluttering when I boosted it. At first I thought it was the clutch slipping so thats been changed for a new item. Now it's still doing it. Basically on stock boost or any boost, the car runs fine but when it tries to boost at 4-4.5K rpm it starts to backfire, and the engine cuts in and out. The same feeling you get when you hit redline except it sounds like it's backfiring. Doesn't matter what gear it is, as soon as it starts to boost same thing happens.

Probably the classic dying coil packs.

They all do it.... in fact mine is doing it at the moment too. You'll most likely need to go get yourself a replacement set of coils - unless it turns out to be something else that's causing the problem

Dman666 Apprentice

Dman666

Posted
Posted (edited)

Same problem struck me; my 040 got REAL loud and then I started to lose power a week or so later. Turned out the pump was rooted and the power loss is due to the pump not maintaining adequate fuel pressure. Changed my pump and all was sweet. On a side note, my 040 was less than a year old and was in really bad condition when I removed it from the tank so I am now a little dubious of bosch's quality control.

Edited by Dman666
shif_tea Grand Master

shif_tea

Posted
Posted
Same problem struck me; my 040 got REAL loud and then I started to lose power a week or so later. Turned out the pump was rooted and the power loss is due to the pump not maintaining adequate fuel pressure. Changed my pump and all was sweet. On a side note, my 040 was less than a year old and was in really bad condition when I removed it from the tank so I am now a little dubious of bosch's quality control.

i've heard quite a few horror stories about the bosch fuel pumps, but then i'm sure heaps of people have no troubles with em. I wouldn't get one though.

Gus have you by any chance tried hitting it with a hammer?? That works for me with things....

dacow Proficient

dacow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Same problem struck me; my 040 got REAL loud and then I started to lose power a week or so later. Turned out the pump was rooted and the power loss is due to the pump not maintaining adequate fuel pressure. Changed my pump and all was sweet. On a side note, my 040 was less than a year old and was in really bad condition when I removed it from the tank so I am now a little dubious of bosch's quality control.

sounds exactly like it.. outta the tuner's shop and it was moderately loud.. but not as loud as it is today.. mind I ask what you ended up changing it for?

Dman666 Apprentice

Dman666

Posted
Posted
sounds exactly like it.. outta the tuner's shop and it was moderately loud.. but not as loud as it is today.. mind I ask what you ended up changing it for?

Was a little short on cash at the time so went back to a stock.....no drama's since.......been keeping a lookout for a cheap tomei one though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...