Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Peoples just wondering what a Trust Greddy Front Mount Intercooler for Nissan Skyline BNR32 / BCNR33 GTR be worth?

Specs are 600X300X70 16 row core with 3 inch inlets and outlets

Excellent Condition.

Also what returns KW wise could I expect from upgrading from stock IC to this one?

cheres

Rob

Here is a link to a post with some pics?

post-25605-1161095151.jpg

post-25605-1161095179.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139161-trust-inter-cooler-worth/
Share on other sites

You will get little to no power gain from upgrading to a FMIC.

All a FMIC does is let you a little run higher boost. The increased power comes from the increased boost, not the FMIC itself.

Not entirely true.

You get a slight increase in power from the cooler denser air at the same pressure and better flow design. Engines make their power from the difference in heat between in and out. Cooler air in and same higher temp out = more power.

I usually estimate 2% power gain for a intercooler upgrade at same pressure, but it can vary depending on how good the GTR one was to begin with, this one looks like it has good end tanks compared to GTR.

I guess you know most of this though. Definative answer = I don't know. Guestimate = 4kw atw

Edited by simpletool
Not entirely true.

You get a slight increase in power from the cooler denser air at the same pressure and better flow design. Engines make their power from the difference in heat between in and out. Cooler air in and same higher temp out = more power.

I usually estimate 2% power gain for a intercooler upgrade at same pressure, but it can vary depending on how good the GTR one was to begin with, this one looks like it has good end tanks compared to GTR.

I guess you know most of this though. Definative answer = I don't know. Guestimate = 4kw atw

If your current setup is a flow restriction, you'll make a little more power.

If it manages to drop you inlet temps as well, you'll make a little more power; though a larger unit could suffer worse heat soak in summer, idling etc.

From what i hear a stock GTR IC is a damm good unit, so unless its a physical airflow restriction, leave it. Find this out by measuring any back pressure, by checking pressure before and after IC.

Cheers

M

Not entirely true.

You get a slight increase in power from the cooler denser air at the same pressure and better flow design. Engines make their power from the difference in heat between in and out. Cooler air in and same higher temp out = more power.

I usually estimate 2% power gain for a intercooler upgrade at same pressure, but it can vary depending on how good the GTR one was to begin with, this one looks like it has good end tanks compared to GTR.

I guess you know most of this though. Definative answer = I don't know. Guestimate = 4kw atw

Prove the GTR one is restrictive then. Cause i, like many others, dont think its too shabby at all for a stock part.

Many many many cars are running into the mid 300rwkw range and still using the stock core.

The factory GTR item is exceptional, i would expect no power gain at all on a stock turbo'd car.

Even on one with GT-SS/2530's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...