Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Rather than stop @ eng oil, here's a run down on what I've been using & the links to each one (I hope?).

Engine: Motul 300V (10W/40 mostly)

http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.02.01

If 300V is good enough for NISMO & MUGEN to use it then it's good enough for me :D

G/box: Castrol VMX80

http://www.castrol.com.au/castrol_001/prod...rans_index.html

Diff': Redline Shockproof "Superlight" http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/spgoti.htm

Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600

http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.06.01

Brake pads: EBC Greenstuff

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/green.htm

As Motul is a French based company the English translation on their website is a tad average :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-19011
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

yeh mobil 1 5W50 is too thin for a worn engine, redline or agip 10W40 would be better

im surprised to hear alot of you using mobil 1, ive been told by quite a few people to stay clear of it - not good quality etc...

As I said this is NOT the stuff you buy at Mobil servos or Kmart, it's a different product. I've heard not good stuff about the regular Mobil 1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-19710
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I thought I better add my opinions on Oils.

The biggest problem we all face is we have NO idea what happened before we all got these cars. The most critcial time in a motors life IS the 1st 0 to 20000 kays. Did he/she run it in properly or was it thrashed,,,,did it get regular(5000kay) oil changes or when they got around to it.

I think some of you guys are chucking away good hard earned money on oils that are just not needed. Sure top quality Synthetics oils are the best thing man has invented for the Internal Combustion Engine,,,,buts it not real good for most of us because we don't know what happened before we bought them and sometimes its just plain old "to slippery".

You guy's are gonna kill me,,,but I use Castrol Para-Synthetic oil,,,,. Only because it only stays in there for 5000kays and it has good,,,not great detergent qualities. At 70000 plus kays you don't wanna start cleaning every bit of sludge and build up out of the motor or you'll end up with one noisey Mutha.

Shell,,,, stick with the Mobil 1 you are using,,,changing oils is never a good thing.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25511
Share on other sites

OK, OK....

Can someone answer this question. If an oil has good temperature stability, is it the better oil?

Oil's making 5kw or more to me means nothing as it has to do the basic function, protect the motor.

My thinking is that if it holds temperature better, it has less wear and tear on the motor, thus is the better oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25522
Share on other sites

SIlver-Arrowz,

I think your on to something there. Some oils tend to loose the plot when the temps get high.

NDR,

You've got a good point there. If the motor is crap to begin with, then the type of oil that you use isn't going to fix it, but it might stop it from getting worse.

I was lucky when I got mine. I found the service history book under the seat, it had all the factory services done before the KM's were up, car chassis and motor numbers are the same too (thank god...).

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25627
Share on other sites

I agree with you ndr. There's not much point putting expensive super low viscosity oil in a tired & worn motor, just as silly as putting low grade 25W60 into a healthy close tolerance twin cam turbo engine.

The grade of oil should be chosen based on manufacturers spec's, climate/temp, age/condition of the engine, & the intended use of the engine.

In a healthy engine you want oil that resists high temperature charring & maintains its viscosity. Oil that doesn't hold up under high temperature will lose viscosity & cause a drop in oil pressure, it's also more likely to burn, or carbonize.

In a performance application the better your oil holds up under high temp' the better it's protecting the engine internals. 5000k of "enthusiastic" driving "can" include a lot of high oil temp's, a track session is a perfect example, hence oil coolers to keep the oil temp under control. A quality performance proven oil is worth the extra $$$ if you’re keen to drive enthusiastically from time to time ;)

Have a chat with the pit crew on a race team (any form of racing) & see what oil they use? & how often they change it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14-oils-aint-oils/page/3/#findComment-25965
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...