Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Think im gunna stick with the stock manifolds but i definetly want some new dump pipes. I was in love with the CES pipes pictured I had thought they were only $700 in stainless. When i rang up they are actually $1800 and thats trade price! Unfortunately im going to have to draw a line there :P

I can't justify spending so much money on that part, as good as they might be. I can get new Tomei ones from Japan for $630 delivered. So thats another option. Ideally id like to pick up some quality dump pipes 2nd hand. Anyone got any they dont need?

I have got the covers all painted up and back home so ive added pictures of them. The timing covers are fitted but the cam and plug covers are just dummy fitted at this stage. Im going to get one more new cam cover gasket as last time i had the car apart i only replaced the one that was leaking. I also need to figure out what im going to use for the cam cover baffle material. Ive been told fuel cell foam, where do i get that from?

Deren

post-14108-1202784110_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1202784469_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1202784503_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1202784527_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1202784558_thumb.jpg

post-14108-1202784585_thumb.jpg

Call revolution racegear in Moorooka, or maybe Meridian motorsport in Melbourne. Don't ATI do fuel cells as well? Hunt around but I just leave the baffles alone and make sure the oil returns are good. I've just pickud up some nice Millenium Jade covers and an M-spec Nur cover garnish for the GTR, and the Racecar will get the crystal red covers and another M-spec Nur garnish.

The Tomeis are pure art. Ronin09 has them. My manifolds are a copy of the Tomeis and got them for 200 + 100 for the machining. My dumps are a basic short gate and 2.5inch pipe to make for easier maintenance as long ones are a pain. The dumps were about 200 and well put together but just no attention to detail on the gate merges but nothing a half hour of the die grinder didn't fix.

Deren

I thought you would have had all the hot parts ceramically coated? It made a huge difference to under bonnet temps on my old GT-R. From memory I had the turbine housings, exhaust manifolds, dumps, front pipes and exhaust manifold heat shields done. Gives them a nice black finish too.

Cheers

Brendan

I noticed you did that on your silvia. I was thinking about it but was told that its not as worthwhile coating the cast manifolds as they retain alot of the heat anyway. The extra expense is something i can do without too. Im getting very itchy to have it finished as im sure you can imagine!

Mate all i can say is that i'm in aaww at this project.

this is a truly inspiring rebuild. the attention to detail amazes me

keep up the excellent work and i hope you do show it when your done as i will definately

make the trip to see it in the flesh.

Cheers for sharing the build process

Hey Deren, seems things are coming along faster now, it would look good if u did paint the parts black to suit the engine stealth look. I bet your are itchy to have it finished, when do you suspect you'll have it finished (estimate)? P.S if you need a hand with anything, i only like 5 minz down the road. Goodluck, n keep it up! Hame

LOL at Brendan...Umm i was going to but i figured you cant see them at all once the heat shields and everything else is in place anyway. Ive used Tomei metal gaskets throughout and i have already torqued the exhaust manifolds so they will most likely stay as they are. I really cant be sure how long the rest of the build will take. All i can say is not too much longer i hope. Feel free to give me call and drop over whenever. Im on holidays until next week.

yeah no way will you see the manifolds if you use the standard heat sheilds, so don't bother.

I put the ces short dumps in and am very happy about their design and performance so far. not cheap retail price though

If i dont find a cheap 2nd hand pair of dumps i will most likely get the Tomei ones i mentioned..

Hey there deren, was nice to catch up, how is she coming along now? This project looks great on here but even better in the flesh can't wait to see her back on the road! Get the Tomei ones, it won't let you down too much, however i sure we''ll all keep our eyes out for CES pipes for you.

Last night i fitted the oil and water feed lines onto the new turbos. They have been cleaned out throughly, especially the oil feed. It took some gentle persuasion to get it all to bolt up. I was a little worried at first that i wouldnt be able to get it to fit but its all good :)

Yesterday at work i tensioned the pinion nut up on the front diff with the new bearings etc fitted. I havent had much experience in this area yet. The pinion is a little stiff to turn now and now that the crown wheel is installed there is a tiny bit of a knock when you rock the crown wheel back and forth...Seems to be just the gap between the crown wheel teeth and the pinion teeth. Is this normal? I have reused the original shims as i havent changed anything besides the bearings and seals. Im yet to run some bearing blue to check for correct meshing...

Does anyone know for sure if thats normal?

Deren

Deren,

Wow. I have just spent about an hour reading this whole thread. You are living my dream. lol. Your attention to detail and commitment to your cause is commendable. Good luck and I hope it all works out for you?

Looking forward to seeing more pics!

indeed they do - they are turbo outlet to cat. but the shape/length of the pipes makes it hard to get the motor in and out. if you are only doing it once you will be OK i guess, but if you need to do the motor quickly or a few times it will really start to annoy you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...