Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks mate :down:

Yeah i guess im not as old as some but still feel like i should have done it a few years earlier.

Anyway, today at work i finally managed to remove a sleeve that was halting the final disassembly of my gearbox. I was very pleased to get the sleeve off the counter shaft which enabled me to remove both the main shaft and counter shafts from the sandwich plate. So now i will organise a new sleeve (had to cut it) and all new seals and bearings. I planned to sand blast the gearbox case to freshen it up but to make the transfer case match it will have to get the same treatment. The problem is that i didnt really want to pull the transfer case apart. It wouldnt be a bad idea to check it all out and make sure everything is within spec but of course that will take more time. The other option is to paint the gearbox case and the transfer case without disassembling it. It would look fine but im a bit concerned about the durability of the paint. Thats the advantage to sand blasting it all.

Today after work i finally fitted the turbo oil return hoses, complete with new heat insulation cloth. Theres a number of similar small jobs that im trying to get finished up.

No progress pics at this stage but i will get some soon.

I was thinking to ask you that, now i dont have to :bunny: Thanks for the reply Brendan. Did you use an etch primer on the alloy case before the top coat? All the alloy i've painted so far ive primed first for a little better adhesion. Im open to ideas with this one :)

Hey Duncan, thanks for your input :blink: Maybe i should just go with the painting idea. I am thinking to strip down the transfer case now so the sand blasting is an option... I think i'll wait and see closer to the time and make my decision then.

I called about a rebuild kit for the gearbox today. A place in sydney can sell me a full kit for $330. Im not sure if that was trade, as i mentioned where i worked but didnt ask specifically for a trade price. They said the FS5R30 uses the same kit as the RB30 powered Patrol. Can anyone confirm?

What is FS5R30, is it the gearbox code? I am certain that you can only use and rb26 specific gearbox rebuild kit, in comes with the bearings, series 3/r33 synchros etc. still all bolts into the r32 casing though. If you are talking to sydney about it, call award gearboxes in Rydalmere

I was thinking to ask you that, now i dont have to :D Thanks for the reply Brendan. Did you use an etch primer on the alloy case before the top coat? All the alloy i've painted so far ive primed first for a little better adhesion. Im open to ideas with this one :)

I was lucky in that the casing had no guts so was easy to move around. I started with a degrease, and then had it acid dipped as well. Whether this helped or not I'm not sure. I gave it a good hit with the prepsol, then went at it with the VHT Nu-Cast Engine Enamel in Cast Aluminium (SP995) colour. I think I did 2-3 coats of that, making sure I'd masked up the relevant surfaces that needed protecting. Then I hit it with a couple of coats of VHT Brake, Caliper, Drum and Rotor Paint in Clear (SP730). I used the same process on the diff cover too.

As you can see from these pics, it came it well with a nice smooth surface which has so far made it very easy to clean:

http://www.sillbeer.com/images/driveline/b...fter-fitted.jpg (close up sort of)

http://www.sillbeer.com/images/engine/s13-...ox-drveside.jpg

In hind sight, I should have hit the top part of the sump as well to match the two colours up.

Cheers

Brendan

Sorry i somehow missed the idea of powdercoating it. Thats always an option isnt it. Only problem is extra expense and will it match the rest of the build?

What is FS5R30, is it the gearbox code? I am certain that you can only use and rb26 specific gearbox rebuild kit, in comes with the bearings, series 3/r33 synchros etc. still all bolts into the r32 casing though. If you are talking to sydney about it, call award gearboxes in Rydalmere

Yeah, FS5R30A is the model of the gearbox. Im yet to fully inspect it. So im not sure if i will need any new syncros yet. Thanks for the input on the rebuild kit. Only reason i called those guys was because i heard they did good prices, and they do. However now im not certain they have what im after. Anyone know of a Brisbane based shop that can supply me with well priced gearbox parts to suit? If not i'll try Award.

I was lucky in that the casing had no guts so was easy to move around. I started with a degrease, and then had it acid dipped as well. Whether this helped or not I'm not sure. I gave it a good hit with the prepsol, then went at it with the VHT Nu-Cast Engine Enamel in Cast Aluminium (SP995) colour. I think I did 2-3 coats of that, making sure I'd masked up the relevant surfaces that needed protecting. Then I hit it with a couple of coats of VHT Brake, Caliper, Drum and Rotor Paint in Clear (SP730). I used the same process on the diff cover too.

As you can see from these pics, it came it well with a nice smooth surface which has so far made it very easy to clean:

http://www.sillbeer.com/images/driveline/b...fter-fitted.jpg (close up sort of)

http://www.sillbeer.com/images/engine/s13-...ox-drveside.jpg

In hind sight, I should have hit the top part of the sump as well to match the two colours up.

Cheers

Brendan

Thanks for your reply Brendan. I would be quite happy with a finish similar to that. Although i have used a darker grey metallic on my rear diff inspection cover so if i do go with the painting option i might use that color instead and then follow up with the clear coat. It would be something different anyway :O Now i have to decide what i want to do.

When I had my reverse gear lockout problem, the guys at All About Gearboxes at Greenacre mentioned how just about all the Nissan gearboxes are the same and said something about my GTR having the same gearbox as a Patrol?

This post isn't much help (it was over two years back). But thought I'd share that I'd heard about compatibility between Nissan boxes too.

FWIW

No its all useful, and i thankyou for giving me your input :O

By the way the color i planned to perhaps use on my gearbox casing and transfer is the same as i've used on the exhaust manifold covers etc.

Edited by Godzilla32

will it match? that will depend on the colour choices the coater has, looks like a stamped steel or high metallic gun metal.

will cost a bit more than paint yes, but you wouldnt need to worry as much as normal paint as to whether it will last :ermm:

just an option is all,

Hey Nick. How are ya? Yeh its been difficult at times but im quite patient :D I just have to remind myself that i'll have a sweet GTR by the end of it all. I was actually reading through the thread last night. I had forgotten how much work i have put into this project. In the next few months the engine will be back in, which will allow me to pretty much complete everything else in the engine bay. That will give me plenty to do!

I'd like to catch up for a beer, let me know when your here :(

Deren

Got into work today for a few hours and completely disassembled the rest of the gearbox. It all went smoothly which was good for a change :happy: I've sorted out all the gearsets and wired them up together to minimise confusion during assembly. I put a few parts through the industrial hot washer at work and began the cleaning/inspection process. A couple of the gears got small disassembly chips, but they will be fine after a bit of polishing/grinding. Besides that it looks good so far, so hopefully i'll just replace all the bearings and seals. I need to find a gearbox part supplier in Brisbane that is familiar with the FS5R30A box from the R32 GTR. Can anyone help me out? Nissan quoted me a reasonable $430 for a full rebuild kit. Compared to the kit for $330 from Australian Trans in sydney thats pretty good. Im not sure whether or not the aftermarket kit from sydney is the right one either. So a local supplier would be great if anyone knows of one??

Sorry i forgot to take pics at work.

Deren

Good stuff Deren. Since I'm pretty crippled atm I'll have to bring my gearbox from the racecar over for a reco mate, once it comes out. Cash job of course :down:. A top quality tuner smashed the syncros in 3-4 and at oil change the bits came out the bottom. I drive it like a race box anyway but it would be nice not to have a crunch when I forget to shift hard.

Hey there Geoff :down: How did he manage to stuff the syncros doing a tune? Or was this during a drive?

You want me to rebuild it for you?? I could take a look at it if thats what u mean. Always up for extra cash.

During the drive after the tune mate. Ham fisted was all it was. Down in Vic too but since I'll be selling it later I'll need to sort the box out.

First priority will be running it at the Nissan sprints at QR with Time Attack, then I'll work on getting the box out for you to earn some bucks from me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...