Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well Jase...

working in insurance and having a best mate as a cop,

all Ive heard and seen is that anything aftermarket can be classed as a defect.

but yes, I'll be reading those guidelines asap!

:D

Sorry mate, I just realised I sounded like a complete cockfag saying that.

I have looked into this quite a bit. You can legally modify your car. Not all mods are illegal, they just need to be done within the guidelines. Included in these guidelines are items that require an authorised RTA signatory (or engineer as they are commonly known) to sign off and agree that they are safe & sound.

The main problem is, the police that defect people don't know enough about the guidelines. Therefore they defect you on the basis that they suspect illegal modifications when in all reality they dont know what is legal or not (to an extent). Then you must clear that defect by proving that it is within the guidelines by getting a pink or blueslip from an approved mechanic or repairing/replacing the item to a legal state.

So, my suggestion is, have an up-to-date copy of the guidelines with you that apply to your mods (assuming you comply with them) and if you get harrased by cops trying to defect you, in a nice way show them that you are totally within your rights to go as far as you have with the mods.

Simple.

Two outcomes from that situation would be you get let off, with no hassles. Or if your a knob, they give you a defect anyway and you have to go clear it anyway.

edit: spelling

I know you werent being a cockfag bout it mate - its all good :D

thanks for the link mate, it'll come in handy :happy:

I think everyone should check this link out - very helpful.

Cheers Jase!

Front mount intercooler are not a defect for the epa.

i went to the epa for me defect day and the epa told me the FMIC are an OK dont have to take it off, i even got a front bar with the FMIC clearly seen.

Front mount intercooler are not a defect for the epa.

i went to the epa for me defect day and the epa told me the FMIC are an OK dont have to take it off, i even got a front bar with the FMIC clearly seen.

yeh im checking the RTA link out soon.... ill get back on here then thanks whoever put it in there. for got now already hit reply!...

I rang police... asked them bout defects copper sounded very vaigue sounded retarded / fat / in need of a donut or something... I asked him bout mods like intercooler and all he said was... you take anything from factory off the car.. and it is defectable... unless you have the workmanship engineered and provide a cert...

clarification guys....

Its honestly so hard to find out the right answer as sometimes i feel cops are retarded... any one feel me? lol

ill check out the rta stuff now it should help clear alot up....

HAPPY MODIFYING

Steve0

<A href='http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi02.pdf'>Can Sum1 tell me if this link is just telling me which places do engineering certs accepted by the rta or wtf is it about</A>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...