Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much does it cost? Where is the skid pan in gympie? Must say i do not head to gympie without a good reason and this will be it!

All the details in the link below:

http://www.sunshinecoastcruising.com/forum...f=11&t=2342

or for the super lazy ones:

Date: Sunday 11th November 2007.

Location: Roadcraft Skidpan, just south of Gympie.

Time: It starts at 8:30am with the drivers briefing and goes all day to around 3:30pm in the afternoon (Rain or Shine).

Cost: Cost of entry is $30.

Licence: Current Drivers Licence and AASA Clubman or CAMS S2 licence. AASA Licences can be bought on the day for $50.

How to enter:-

Contact club for entry form. If you are purchasing a licence on the day, leave the licence number blank. Fill that out and send it in with a cheque or money order of $30 made out to "Cooloola Car Club Inc."

Address:

Cooloola Car Club Inc.

PO Box 173

Gympie QLD 4570

Positions are limited to 50 cars so pre-entry is a must. In the last few motorkhanas there has been no spare positions on the day, so to avoid dissapointment you are advised to pre-enter.

Classes include 4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cyl, FWD, 4WD and Ladies - Trophies for 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each class.

You only need a road worthy and registered car. No helmet, fire proof gear, roll cage or extinguishers are required. You may also take 1 passanger with you for the ride on the stages.

Food and drink will be on sale throughout the day.

If you have a tarp or gazebo to put up please bring it as it get hot in the sun and we cant all fit under mine! If you don't like burning up your good tyres, probably bring along another set as well.

to keep the forum chugging along anyone seen this:

it looks awesome.

copied off dawn of the dead tho, with the little vampire girl running out, just like the zombi girl at the start of DOTD

and this is rofl

and this TURBO'D ferrari !!!!!!

Edited by r33cruiser
Hey,

I need some help trying to track down a set of front rotors for my ER34. Prefer DBA and hoping to get slotted...Def not drilled or cross drilled and slotted..

Please let me know if you can help out.

thanks

Whats wrong with your standard ones?

DBA's? lol try super cheap auto

Whats wrong with your standard ones?

DBA's? lol try super cheap auto

Standard rotors are warped and cannot be machined due to the high risk of the rotors cracking when heating up.

I require new rotors and have decided to buy DBA rotors as they come within my price range. I dont see how DBA's can be LoL'd at....They are at least twice as reliable as the genuine rotors...So any upgrade above stock is well worth it...

Cruiser - Thanks for the help.

Standard rotors are warped and cannot be machined due to the high risk of the rotors cracking when heating up.

I require new rotors and have decided to buy DBA rotors as they come within my price range. I dont see how DBA's can be LoL'd at....They are at least twice as reliable as the genuine rotors...So any upgrade above stock is well worth it...

Cruiser - Thanks for the help.

i have a few contacts for these as i use to have them on my car.I would reconmend the "kangaroo paw" style of rotor from dba.

They where the sport rotor which where slotted .These types of rotor have a different heat range so once they were in the range worked better,which is noticable.Let me know if you want prices and i'll see what i can do for you.Also im not sure if the R34 are the same but in the R33 they had two different sizes in thickness so you might have to check that on your existing rotors before you order otherwise they might not suit your caliper.

Hope this helps.

Edited by R334door
also i'll have to give the scanner a miss chris, my budget doesnt stretch that far this week.

Thanks for the help with the rotors...got some lined up with some mates from autobarn. :whistling:

I can hold on to the scanner for you if you want...will part with it for $140 at the lowest for ya.

Chris

oi cd. i reckon u could get away with ur standard brakes the way they are atm. just upgrade the pads, and add a few air ducts in there. also properly bedd the brakes in aka BEDDING. also a brake booster stopper is worth a gander.

found out the shudders u feel when braking aren't the disks (90%of the time unless theyre ancient), its from inpropper bedding in of the brake pads. residue is producing uneven patches on the disk.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

keep in mind champ, slotted/drilled rotors, dont cool the brakes, only allow gass to escape.

if u take off the rear protector plate, and have a few guides it will be sweet.

unless ur rotors are seriously fkd..........................buy some R35 rotors BWAAAAAHAAAAAA

Edited by r33cruiser
oi cd. i reckon u could get away with ur standard brakes the way they are atm. just upgrade the pads, and add a few air ducts in there. also properly bedd the brakes in aka BEDDING. also a brake booster stopper is worth a gander.

found out the shudders u feel when braking aren't the disks (90%of the time unless theyre ancient), its from inpropper bedding in of the brake pads. residue is producing uneven patches on the disk.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

keep in mind champ, slotted/drilled rotors, dont cool the brakes, only allow gass to escape.

if u take off the rear protector plate, and have a few guides it will be sweet.

unless ur rotors are seriously fkd..........................buy some R35 rotors BWAAAAAHAAAAAA

Thanks for the help.

Rotors are ancient...10 + Years. Brakes didnt need to be bed in as they dont require them on the high end brake pads you buy.

Nah, just going to get slotted all round. Ordering them on Tues... Sweet. Improve breaking power by heaps.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...