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haha yea.......sure. ive h/m my stock turbo.

looks 'fully sick uleh'

:D

Just asking, it's what i've heard is all ;)

f**k that would be gay if someone did that

OMG tell me about it, way gay-er than you even :ermm::P how is that possible

hey guys, just dropping by to say hello.

if anyone has seen a silver r34 sedan getting around noosa thats me :P

Hey welcome to SAU :P

Yew another 34 on the coast! Would be great to oganise a meet with all of us, you too sunny before u sell ur car!

wait.... so is it the motor.. or the window thats busted?

The actual motor is broken...cant get window up or down...at least i managed to get it up (just before it started raining) - ended up jamming the broken motor so the window doesnt move..

Just looking for an R34 replacement motor (motor only).

Edited by SunnyCoast

$150-200 at any jap yard. kawana jap wreckers have helped me twice.

my magna.. snapped wire and fkd the cogs. new wiper assembly was about 150.

in my silvia burnt motor and snapped wire. new electrical window winding assembly was about $150.

shop around. theres alot of help out there

Edited by r33cruiser

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    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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