Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yay. Top of next page :)

85URK, as for skidpans up at gympie, it is a no go anymore. it is now purely a driver training centre. word is, insurance got too high and was too much of a risk (seing that it is such a small place). i think the only places that now do auto gymkanhas is Queensland Raceway and the Mount Cotton driver training centre. supposedly they do drift circles (put down diesel and water and slide away :) )

Yay. Top of next page :)

85URK, as for skidpans up at gympie, it is a no go anymore. it is now purely a driver training centre. word is, insurance got too high and was too much of a risk (seing that it is such a small place). i think the only places that now do auto gymkanhas is Queensland Raceway and the Mount Cotton driver training centre. supposedly they do drift circles (put down diesel and water and slide away :) )

Yeah Mt cotton is the place to be, been there when they have wet down the track, which is good for the underpowered soarers...hehe nah seriously its good to watch some get some decent angles ..

Yay. Top of next page :D

85URK, as for skidpans up at gympie, it is a no go anymore. it is now purely a driver training centre. word is, insurance got too high and was too much of a risk (seing that it is such a small place). i think the only places that now do auto gymkanhas is Queensland Raceway and the Mount Cotton driver training centre. supposedly they do drift circles (put down diesel and water and slide away :) )

shit so i paid for this coming weekend.....for nothing :)

lol 334door my car is no more underpowered than a 33 or 34 GTST. i have heard that queensland raceway is doing pretty good at skidpans and gymkhanas, and is really well priced. if you can get a group of 20 or so it is about $80 per person

lol 334door my car is more underpowered than a 33 or 34 GTST. i have heard that queensland raceway is doing pretty good at skidpans and gymkhanas, and is really well priced. if you can get a group of 20 or so it is about $80 per person

i have video/photographic proof of that fact :D

hey brad, your computer isn't working. it can't quote things properly. and if so, i would like to see that evidence. unless you are talking about 10HP at the wheels at the first dyno. And before we go into details. you did have a bigger fuel pump, and a front mount intercooler at that stage

;):):laugh::laugh::down::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

230hp at barnes a few months ago. we all filmed it, then u started talking some shit about a fmic increasing ur boost to 28psi or some shit. still isnt quite the same as 256hp of a r33 :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

u can continue your soarer shit here www.soarerworld.com/

or revive a rb vs *jz thread in the general car discussion thread.

Edited by r33cruiser
To be honest while i love the rb motors...you cant go past the fact the 1j and 2j have more potential, without having to replace more.

Thats a little open ended Allara :)

Explain how a 1J has more potential than an RB26?

And replacing stuff is the fun part!!! :)

if you compare a rb25 to a 1j both turbo of course, my money is on the 1j.you really cant compare a rb26 to a 2j cause of the capacity difference , but if you had a rb30 bottom end then that would be a more level playing field.

Yay. Top of next page :)

85URK, as for skidpans up at gympie, it is a no go anymore. it is now purely a driver training centre. word is, insurance got too high and was too much of a risk (seing that it is such a small place). i think the only places that now do auto gymkanhas is Queensland Raceway and the Mount Cotton driver training centre. supposedly they do drift circles (put down diesel and water and slide away :P )

yeah well ages back the car club that used to do skidpans up there got told they couldnt do them until further notice. so they must have cut them all together now, its a shame but i guess, they will get better funding from the government etc if they make it purely a driver training facility.

top gear is making me miss japan :) they started there race in the town right next to where i stayed for a week. the beach that runs along that coast line is according to teh information booth when i was there the only real beach in japan.

besides thoose little fish..they served thoose to us at the school... :P

Edited by 000DNK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...