Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i reckon u could fix that shaun, go see bert at kunda park smash and see if u can put it on the car-o-liner if it even needs it. ive seen worse cars then that repaired. worth a try man, atleast u wont have to ditch such a clean car. im sure u could fix it up.

P.S Coxy said to fix it ya skirt lol

Do it Sunday morning Winkleberry. Gonna come on the bike this time. Save the car for next weekend after the new tune. :blink:

EDIT... BTW, check out the photo in Autosalon of the black rig doing a powerskid at powercruise last year. :P)))

Edited by cuzz_33

i might have to miss this one out guys. i cant have any fun till i get that tap tap tap tap fixed up in my head (i don't trust it and its driving me crazy). can any one recommend some one to re-tune my autronic after i get the shims done, she's running so rich :) .

i reckon u could fix that shaun, go see bert at kunda park smash and see if u can put it on the car-o-liner if it even needs it. ive seen worse cars then that repaired. worth a try man, atleast u wont have to ditch such a clean car. im sure u could fix it up.

P.S Coxy said to fix it ya skirt lol

yeah its worth fixen.. but everything steering and suspension related is bent or blown.. i got friends at a smash repair in palmy. but it'd cost another 7g at the very least to get it where it was, both sides of chassie at front is bent, and all up uderneath along the g\box aswell smashed the door in and yeah did alot of damage.. i would, but a 4wd is calling... cheaper option :)...

haha coxy. he always said keep that car well :( to far gone witch is a bummer, next car will be able to drive over the skyline with ease :/

yeah its worth fixen.. but everything steering and suspension related is bent or blown.. i got friends at a smash repair in palmy. but it'd cost another 7g at the very least to get it where it was, both sides of chassie at front is bent, and all up uderneath along the g\box aswell smashed the door in and yeah did alot of damage.. i would, but a 4wd is calling... cheaper option :blink:...

haha coxy. he always said keep that car well :) to far gone witch is a bummer, next car will be able to drive over the skyline with ease :D

pity about that. i know a guy who has a 25 in a pootrol, it goes alright. sumthing different i guess. find sumthing small to put it in as a track car then have a 4wd as your other car. best of both worlds

No shims in a rb25. They are hydraulic lifters. Might have a collapsed one from having incorrect oil flow restrictors in place. If you drive it hard does it get better for a little bit? Unless its had a rb25 neo head or solid lifter conversion that is.

No shims in a rb25. They are hydraulic lifters. Might have a collapsed one from having incorrect oil flow restrictors in place. If you drive it hard does it get better for a little bit? Unless its had a rb25 neo head or solid lifter conversion that is.

Lol he works a street over from my workshop, i hear it all the time. I infact ran into old mate at bp whilst Kails and i were filling the 32 up, I strolled over and asked to have a look as a mate was "raging" how quick it was. I said "whats the knock mate?" he told me it was shims so i asked if it was a Neo 34 Motor to his reply "i dunno" series 2? "i dunno" how much power do you make "i dunno".... now my reply " Bro 33's dont have solid lifters, no shims there ... its your big ends. Dont rape it to much, Cya"

So yeah we still wont make it out this weekend Cuzz. Got alot on:

Finish 25/30det cefiro wiring

Swap rb20 out of 180sx into r32 4 door

Completely strip R32 GTST

Change t3 gasket in our black 32.

Pick up S13 shell to throw spare rb25 into

SKids and more skids...

Have a good weekend lads!

brand new highflow cat... doesnt matter now

dump pipe came off last nite and boost spiked.... sent me a 180 into a rock wall and its f**ked.... bye bye r31 coupe *CRIES*

anyone wanna buy some parts off it.... kinda f**king devo'd

LOL, a/ how does your dump pipe 'fall off'?

b/ do you now maybe think that your boosting issues had something to do with your exhaust like someone previously stated, considering that after it fell off, it then ran more boost?

c/ unless it spiked 30 psi or more, how did it put you in a wall?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...