Jump to content
SAU Community

Parcel Shelf

baron25

By baron25,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Oh... pain in the butt...

The seats are easy to remove. Search for posts on that one. After that, the stock shelf is clipped and bolted in place, but has two slits that your c-pillar plastic covers clip into. If your shelf is OLD and tatty, it'll bend really easily, and you can bend it down and slip the covers past the slits in the shelf.

Otherwise, if you want to keep the shelf, and it's not so bendy... remove the c-pillar covers. Dunno how to do that though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2629497
Share on other sites
donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted
Oh... pain in the butt...

The seats are easy to remove. Search for posts on that one. After that, the stock shelf is clipped and bolted in place, but has two slits that your c-pillar plastic covers clip into. If your shelf is OLD and tatty, it'll bend really easily, and you can bend it down and slip the covers past the slits in the shelf.

Otherwise, if you want to keep the shelf, and it's not so bendy... remove the c-pillar covers. Dunno how to do that though.

C- pillar covers are all clips after you unbolt the seatbelts and handles up the top, can be really hard to get off and easy to break the clips

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2629553
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

That just makes my method sound WAY better again!

I made my own shelf out of 6mm thick MDF, which I made shorter width-ways. The ends of the shelf sit right up against the c-pillar clips now, with a bit of excess carpet hanging over.

You can't see a single gap, and it looks dead factory!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2632885
Share on other sites
donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted
That just makes my method sound WAY better again!

I made my own shelf out of 6mm thick MDF, which I made shorter width-ways. The ends of the shelf sit right up against the c-pillar clips now, with a bit of excess carpet hanging over.

You can't see a single gap, and it looks dead factory!

Hey steve, Im the guy that bough your stock wheels off you. incase you dont know. I ended up making mine out of 16mm MDF, got 6x9s in there with only minor spacing, carpeted it black, looks great, cant see a thing from outside with tinted windows. Thanks for the advice that day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2637042
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Hey! Your nickname totally didn't register for a minute there!

Good stuff... good to hear that the shelf went well.

Did you do the shorter shelf that I described above? (and the night you picked up the wheels)

SO worth doing =-]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2637979
Share on other sites
Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

how will you guys fasten the mdf to the actual parcel shelf? if your making it shorter at both ends?

i was going to make a shorter shelf - but went against the idea as i thought pillar trim is designed to keep the shelf in place preventing it to rattle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2638123
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Nah, those pillar trim bits are pretty flexible. I wouldn't count on them.

I had one bolt in the middle, under the cap/cover thing.

I also had two plastic... things? on the left and right, hand side. They are the press-in plastic clip kind of things. I pulled those out, and found that the hole they grabbed into actually had a thread in it. The metal part of the parcel tray has a bolt welded into the underside (visible from inside the boot). I bought two bolts and screwed them in. Now it's strapped down by three bolts, rather than some plastic bits (and c-pillar covers).

I honestly beleive the plastic c-pillars clip into the parcel shelf to hold the pillars in place, not for the pillar covers to hold the parcel tray in place!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141070-parcel-shelf/#findComment-2640872
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...