Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well at the moment, im broke. method of payment can be in beer form (case) or something if u could help me out would be awesome.

basically as described in so many threads, the car starts to after fire under boost/ heavy acceleration. I've been told fouled spark plugs is 99% chance of what it is..and well...i agree.

i've seen http://users.bigpond.net.au/r33skyline/r33/sparks.htm

but im not confident enough to pull apart my engine/engine bay YET. Im happy to do the labour if someone can just point and say do this, do that. so yer, im avail this wednesday (1st) if anyone could help us would be awesome :)

Also think I/we may need to tape up the ¿coilpacks? ...gotta love engine n00bs :laugh:

Im springwood/lower blue mountains -> willing to come to you (please dont be toooo far)

Car is R34 GTT

thanks in advance :)

Edited by illusiVe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141104-anyone-want-to-help-me-with-my-r34/
Share on other sites

Im always happy to help, If you dont get a closer offer, Im at castle hill, PM me and I will send you my address. No issues with Wed arvo anytime after 5pm.

I have done my GTR a couple of times, but never done a GTT before, but once the top cover is off it should be the same. I have the tools and am happy to help.

I assume you have the new plugs and know what gap you want?

boost low=7 high = 9.

coil packs = stock (unless someone has changed them)

i think ill take up your offer OZ :yucky: (and borrow ur engine)

i've been told .8 is what i want. ill get some new NGK plugs wed morning :kiss: (pm being sent shortly :sick:)

If you go to Auto One in Springwood they have R34s listed in their catalogues. don't forget to tell them it is a turbo.

When you get the plugs give me a call. I am happy to give you a hand. I'm at Bullaburra, just up the road.

Simon 0408 603 231

hmm be careful you can't really clean platinum plug you will just wreck the coating on the electrode.....better off to put new plugs in, copper are nice and cheap just change them every time you change the oil

yer, unfortunatly none avail @ 9-10pm, but we used a rough scrubbing brush (not metal) so it should have left the coating on :)

thanks to everyone who has helped and offered help, their time and advice :)....im sure it wont be the last time.

Edited by illusiVe

Glad to hear the car is going OK. I have to agree with Drunkan about changing plugs, however I would stick with platinums simply 'cos of the rooting around factor involved in changing them.

I will give you a call anyway, I'm going to the Royal on Saturday night for a few - I'll see if Fatz and Majanal will be along as well. A mate is playing in the band "Enormous Hornbags". Should be a bit of Blues Brothers type music.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...