Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kris, (krzysiu) had this same problem (and judging from the location probably the same officer in question).. I think from memory he had to pay $600 for the engineers cert, the car also had to be put back to stock first (I think).. Have a chat to him about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2629885
Share on other sites

black intercoolers with black piping and silicon work well, it's stock officer.

not when the cop clearly knows exactly what he's looking at. and knows a hole has been cut to fit the AFTERMARKET cooler.

only way to go? Blitz/ARC all the way. Not so expensive when you get hit with $600 for engineering + any other expenses :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2630186
Share on other sites

As long as you havent cut a hole through the chassis rails for the cooler return pipe it does not effect anything in the front end of the car.

I got done ages ago for this same BS but didnt need to get a engineers certificate or any other bs, just a rwc, where nothing was changed anyway.

Car does not have to go back to stock if the cooler is the only mod

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2630197
Share on other sites

But hey. When Holden crash test their cars they dont have huge bullbars on the car. But they are fin if they want to run them.

But god help us if we saw cut a 63mm hole in a non structural panel. All of a sudden our cars are going to kill us in a frontal.

Easy fix. Get a bit of 6mm round bar bent up and welded to around the hol eyou have cut. The primer and paint the whole thing...rock up to your engineer and you should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2630204
Share on other sites

Not being a resident of Vic, who is the opposition leader. Seriously, write a letter from the honest car enthusiast asking whether the focus of the police and road safety campaign will continue ot focus on modified cars. Sure target silly and dangerous mods, but i dont want to hear that my brake upgrade is illegal, or my filter and cooler makes me a menace.

I have never had a problem...but seemswrong that others are

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2630232
Share on other sites

spoke to a few enginners. some will only rip the cooler out and patch the hole with a plate. some wont touch it because it comes with air bags and by cutting a hole the air bag may possible act different in a front on crash. and some will strengthen the hole and sign it off.

thing about engineers cert is that its for the whole car. so anything that didnt get picked up by the cops will by the report. so my exhaust db, ecu, wheels, ride height all has to be fixed too.

its gonna cost bout 80 bucks to strengthen the hole then its 350 for the cert. so thats not too bad. but thats if the rest of the car is ok. im pretty sure it was in an accident in japan cos the key doesnt fit the drivers door lock. so hopefully its repaired properly.

if only i got one with the return pipe going back in the original spot. what did you pay for urs dezz?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2630321
Share on other sites

I recon the engineers are in on the scam with the cops. They prob split the profits 50/50

i recon your right there. think vic roads is in on it too. because theres only a select few vic road approved engineers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2630328
Share on other sites

I got defected in knox to june 2004

Left my car sitting in my garage for over a year waiting till i got off my p's, spent $4500 getting it roadworthy again.

I needed an Engerneering cert for my rear parcel shelf which had holes cut into it to fit 6x9 speakers.

Costs me $480 to fix the holes, $320 for the cert (plus another 60 for 2 replacement child restraints)

2 new tyres was $365

Scraped through the RWC test (cars lowest machanical point was 101mm off the ground.)

Plus my 100,000km service which cost me close to $1900

Then had to worry about getting my car registered again.

Haha no point to that story but the guys I delt with for my cert were really good they in the approved vic roads list to.

They are just off burwood hwy near lewis road if you know it.

Can get ya the number if needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2631396
Share on other sites

not when the cop clearly knows exactly what he's looking at. and knows a hole has been cut to fit the AFTERMARKET cooler.

only way to go? Blitz/ARC all the way. Not so expensive when you get hit with $600 for engineering + any other expenses :rofl:

:P thank god for the BLITZ coolers i'd be coolerless without them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2631515
Share on other sites

how do you know that you have to get an engineers cert? Like I'm sure the officer in question told you that you would have to....... but is it written down anywhere? has your rego actually been cancelled.. becuase if it comes down to a Vicroads inspection... well we all know what vicroads are like.. you might just get away with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141205-defected/#findComment-2634213
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...