Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i'm selling my Z32 AFM with brand new plug.. i'm after $330 for it firm... please pm me if anyone is interested. I dont think theres a cheaper one anywhere.. No longer need due to upgrade ecu which doesn't req afm.. was going to buy power fc but got wolf at cheaper price. Cheers!

post-30902-1162334493.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141319-fs-z32-afm-with-plug-new/
Share on other sites

Is the afm also new or is it just the plug thats new?

The afm is brand new aswell.. i dont really trust 2nd hand electronic stuff thats got to do with engine management but i dont need it nemore cos of the wolf so yea.. i've just taken the afm out of the plastic to take the photo... if your interested pm me dude.. oh and i'll send it anywhere in aus for $10 express post.

Please feel free to ring around to find out how much they're worth... i need the money for tune so i'd like to get rid of this asap.

Part # for Z32 is F00E000202.. retails at around $430.00

Part # for Plug is 1287013004... retails at around $61.00

Edited by skyhi747
Is it the type that hooks up to the standard skyline intake pipe? or is it just oem z32 version. Also did you buy off this forum.

yea dude its the same size as the standard one as in what it connects to like intake pipe and pod filter... the plug i have needs to be re wired as all do... but nah i didnt get it from this forum... but i figured cos other ppl are selling em brand new for $330 and $45 for the tomei plug i thaught i shouldn't have an issue selling for $330 with the bosch plug included.. well its still for sale but i've got it advertised in a few places i'm really eager for tune but need the $$

cheers

george

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...