Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hiya,

I'm trying to make my own fibreglass interior middle panel thingy, the radio stuff.

The idea is to use plaster to mould the interior panel from the inside, then do a reverse mould. and add some custom bits into the plaster.

Get fibreglass resin and voila..

the problem is, I have no idea how fibreglass works...I have seen those fibreglass pack thingy sold in bunning, do I get one of these and it'll work? or do i need like a seperate resin to stuck everything together?

I intend to make a sort of "sliding panel" to hide my head unit, so the fibreglass section have to be thin. From what I have read so far, I need to sand the fibreglass to get smooth surface. but if my fibreglass is thin, I think it'll crack the moment I sand it... can I just spray a really thick layer of primer making everything smooth?

How do i get the super glossy look the audio shops produce when painting the panels?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141746-fibreglass-experts-needed/
Share on other sites

make the panel with 2-3 layers of fibreglass if you want it to be extra strong, mix up the resin itself and brush it over the finished product - then you can prime it up etc make it smooth & ready for painting.

the fibreglass repair kits they sell @ bunnings would be sufficient,

either that or look up your yellow pages and find a shop that sells firbeglassing and moulding stuff, they will be able to help you out with supplying a proper fine weave glass (the bunnings kit's I have seen are only chopmat). Using a fine weave glass over chopmat will give you a better result with 'sharper edges' especially as it's only a small component.

To make the mould don't worry about making the inside mould just make the reverse one with the insert to begin with, polish the insert up with some floor polish so that it doesn't stick to the plaster mould. Then when laying the glass polish the inside of the mould with the same stuff so the resin doesn't stick to it.

For best finnishing results either do a gelcoat layer (this is easy and you dun have to mess around with sanding and painting and shit) the gelcoat layer just gets painted in before you lay the glass. The way they get the really shinny finnish is they use a 2pac paint and gloss out of a gun. Because it's an interior panel just bog it up with carbog to smooth it out and get a good surface for painting.

The sliding panel is a bit beyond me though, if I was gonna do that I would just use a plastic piece and paint it the same and find some plastic U channel for it to slide on and use some glass and resin to fix it into the back of the insert, as for keeping it open perhaps a small magnet or something.....

Heres my custom dash, is this what you mean?

I cut out a piece of arcylic to suit with a jig made for my router, then glasses it in from behind. Unless your good with a router I would nt reccomend it.

post-30928-1162698582.jpg

I used to design and build fibreglass body kits. If you need help on mould making and replication using gelcoat and fibreglass i will be happy to help. Its tricky if youve never done it b4 but once you know how its all pretty much the same technique.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not at all, pure street use, touge, even drag strip and you'll be fine   There's a larger version of it too, however would be overkill for your application. If you do plan on using that sump, might as well fit a headdrain/crank case vent to help alleviate crank case pressure. Your mechanic will also notice you cannot re-use the AWD windage trays on the motor too, as it fouls with the AWD -> RWD sump. However given your usage, you'll be fine.
    • @GTSBoy yeah but the MAIN problem is that "you" guys may know that but i/my mechanic did not. I literally spend hours to find differences between Stagea and Skyline engine (even here) and found kinda "nothing" Yeah one guy mentioned that the block is larger/wider but nothing about the oil pan. Of course AWD has different one but "everybody" says...yeah just slap RWD pan... and the parts number for my N/A engine and NEO DET were the same so iam using one from my old engine. And of course being in EU/Czech many of the sites did not even show(i need VPN to be here)... @MBS206NO it is not my channel and not my video. Dont even know the guy. I just post this as a reference cuz i have the same problem. As i said you guys in AU/NZD may know this but here it is kinda a new info cuz IF someone doing this swap they already have oil pan or they make custom one.  @Dose Pipe Sutututu Yeah it is AWD RB25DET NEO Yeah as you mentioned the pick up is in a different place ...but i do not drift or track the car. It is and will be strictly street and just "casual" weekend cruiser. With that "custom" pan as shown in the video...could there be some problems?  For others. Iam sorry if that topic "looks" like i want to show/boost some YT channel or numbers. Iam quite the opposite.  I would rather drive my car thru sewers than get the attention that this car gets here. I do not have any YT channel nor IG/Twitter or TikTok. I just want some info from time to time cuz here...there is none :-) 
    • +2 Mine came with a bonus flat battery. 
    • Ha! 'Sif tailgaters work on logic or good sense.
    • +1. Good thing is people wont tailgate you for a while
×
×
  • Create New...