Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have a mate that is currently modding his ls1. intake and exhaust with extractors got 200rwkw which is what most get. another $1000 this week for ls1edit and a tune and the tuner reckons up to 250rwkw. if you want 300, i reckon you need cam at least. 200rwkw vt calais auto vs. 200rwkw r33 manual (me) and i walk all over him at any speed apart from the launch. throw in some curves and at the first corner he can't even see my rear end. you'll be surprised what torque RB25's produce. i've got close on 500nM with stock turbo, injectors and pump.

r34gtt 300rwkw manual would, in my opinion, kill an auto 300rwkw ls1. weight is the killer!

There is so much variation in horsepower of the LS1's but gerneally a VY 235M will make about 200rwkw with an exhaust and may go to about 220rwkw with a tune on 98Oct. Put in a 218 deg square at 50 thou camshaft with 112 deg lobe centre's from memory and you will get up around the 260-270rwkw mark with a MAFLESS tune. I've never seen one make 300rwkw and thats with big camshafts around 230 at 50 thou on standard motors anyway.

And yes the R34 would smash it with 300rwkw.

take into consideration now that GENIIIs are gettin as cheap as R33's, and then factor in that its alot cheaper to get 300rwkw in an LS1. i honestly cannot think of ever seeing a skyline make 300 at the wheels without a built motor, or at least a basic rebuild with forgies, then add in the bigger turbo, fuel system etc.

GENII+4k capa supercharger+exhaust and tune=300+rwkw with fairly good reliabilty.... or so im lead to believe

take into consideration now that GENIIIs are gettin as cheap as R33's, and then factor in that its alot cheaper to get 300rwkw in an LS1. i honestly cannot think of ever seeing a skyline make 300 at the wheels without a built motor, or at least a basic rebuild with forgies, then add in the bigger turbo, fuel system etc.

GENII+4k capa supercharger+exhaust and tune=300+rwkw with fairly good reliabilty.... or so im lead to believe

They are definately pretty cheap to do up in a bolt on case.

Exhaust and twin 2.5 $ 1500

Tune and OTR $ 1600

My brother done this and it kicks out a little more power than mine, 250rwkw, but mine has broader stronger midrange so i can still blow him on roll ons. But its still impressive and it would beat a standard turbo R33 with mods.

WogsRus, that is, providing you did it in 4th gear which is 1:1. Otherwise you have to divide by the gear ratio.

Mind you my car "only" pulls 400nM on the dyno in 4th gear (245rwkw), which dividing by 3.69 gives you 108nM the flywheel which is like a 1.5L carby motor!! So yeah torque at the wheels on a dyno is not comparable to the engine torque.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...