Jump to content
SAU Community

Hillclimbs In A.c.t.

cactu5

By cactu5,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

cactu5 Enthusiast

cactu5

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was talking to this guy last night, and he was telling me about his new car that he races at these hillclimbs in Canberra. I didn't even know there was anywhere to race in Canberra. I think he was saying there aren't many 4wd cars at the moment. I was wondering if anyone from SAU is representing at these things?

Apparently it's really easy to get involved too. All you need is your car, a helmet, a fire extinguisher, $50, turn up and away you go.

http://www.sdmahillclimb.com/

Edited by cactu5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/141878-hillclimbs-in-act/
Share on other sites
LTSJayce Veteran

LTSJayce

Posted
Posted

The only climb venue I can think of is the Sutton Road one. Seems to be an OK course;when you see someone who can REALLY steer a car around there,it's well wicked! The next closest track is at Wakefield.

When the GT-R is finally finished,run in and tuned to where I need it,it shall see some hillclimb duties. Having said that,I'll get smacked up by some sub 600Kg openwheeler with short gearing and a midget driving...however,we shall see if the boot is on the other foot at Phillip Island!

cactu5 Enthusiast

cactu5

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When the GT-R is finally finished,run in and tuned to where I need it,it shall see some hillclimb duties. Having said that,I'll get smacked up by some sub 600Kg openwheeler with short gearing and a midget driving...however,we shall see if the boot is on the other foot at Phillip Island!

I had a look at the classes and what times their running. A GTR would run in the 'SV over 3000cc' class, because it is 4WD and Turbo. So you wouldn't have to go up against one of those superlight cars. There aren't many cars running in that class from the look of things so you could be quite competitive. I've been told the first thing people want to do is get their time under a minute, but to be competitive in the SV class the time needs to be around 50 seconds. I wonder how the GTR's would go against the WRX's that are running these times?

LTSJayce Veteran

LTSJayce

Posted
Posted
I had a look at the classes and what times their running. A GTR would run in the 'SV over 3000cc' class, because it is 4WD and Turbo. So you wouldn't have to go up against one of those superlight cars. There aren't many cars running in that class from the look of things so you could be quite competitive. I've been told the first thing people want to do is get their time under a minute, but to be competitive in the SV class the time needs to be around 50 seconds. I wonder how the GTR's would go against the WRX's that are running these times?

True,but I'm a smidge cometitive,so I'm looking at my car in the overall picture of who's racing.I realise I'll never outclimb the superlights(they're bloody quick around Wakefield,too),but a class win is marginally less satisfying as a top 5 overall in my eyes,especially if you've snotted some of the bigger hitters!

The other thing I want is to be able to say that I can drive the car to + from the track,still have a full interior,stereo etc,AND have it stomp as well! One of the best things about the GT-R,really!

low200 Experienced

low200

Posted
Posted

I used to do it.

Did it for 12 months in my datsun, and ill be doing it again once its finished. It is good fun but you really only get 3-4 laps for the whole day which makes it a bit avg. It is EXCELLENT on wet days and the show offs are there or when the RENESIS team are there. Dont ever do the hillclimb track at wakefield it is _SHIT_ with a capital everything. They have basic scrutineering but as long as you have a fire extinguisher mounted in your cabin within arms reach, say infront of you seat or passenger side tranny tunnel or somthing, a CAMS Approved helmet AND CAMS S2 license AND club membship then you can race. You cant just come in off the street and race.

Having said all that, the lap's are properly timed and they have firies and everything there, its run very professionally and is a good day out.

low200 Experienced

low200

Posted
Posted (edited)

i used to clock 56 sec laps in my datto that was relatively stock, the fastest lap record is by a completely insane S1 RX7 thats full racecar spec of like 41 secs or faster.

Best car to take that track in would something small and light which is why the clubmans and RX7s do so well. a skyline will not be suited to the track as theres not much straight at all and lots of negative camber corners so understeer claims many as well as hardcore braking on the downhill followed by negative corner, you can get mad sideways on it but its tricky. Youll have fun but a 'line will be too heavy i think, a 200 on the other hand... >_<

EDIT: should mention i started off getting 65 sec laps and took me a while to cut it down 10 secs...

Edited by low200
Darkon Experienced

Darkon

Posted
Posted
What sort of times can be expected with a fairly stock R32 or R33? I don't want to get there and be shamed by a mx5 or mr2 with good handling.

hehehe an mx5 um yeah you will get absolutely munched by one there's a bloke out there that running a bullet :) if you haven't heard of them there a mx5 with a supercharged v8 under the bonnet some place in vic makes them i think i seen this car up close and it's an absolute weapon :huh:

p.s

hehe low200 as if a 200 will will ever beat a skyline :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...