Jump to content
SAU Community

Overboosting At 5000rpm

mags33

By mags33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mags33 Newbie

mags33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, have an overboosting problem with my r33 gtst s1 with the wastegate fully open. It makes no boost with the gate open until 5000rpm where it builds up very quickly to 14psi + . Being a GCG highflow I sent it back to them thinking the wastegate needed to be bored out. . The wastegate was bored out to the largest size possible with a new flap assembly. Got it back and still have the problem. I have also checked the cat for anything restricting flow and that the wastegate is not rubbing on the dump, both are fine.

mods:

power fc

power fc EBC

GCG highflow

batmbl dump

3in exhaust after cat

any thoughts welcome, cheers...

mitch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142025-overboosting-at-5000rpm/
Share on other sites
WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

my mate has same problems, exacty thesame. Give a ydawak PM. he is usually on every couple of days. But so far the turbo has been off 3 times to fix it, turns out the way the turbo was put back together, ment the westage was not openning fully or something. He has yet to get the car back after having everything put back together, so wait and see

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

check you have the hoses for your ebc plumbed in for internal gate, not external. There are three possible fittings on the solenoid unit, i think you want for internal the middle one and one of the side ones..check the apexi handbook for setup.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

it's actually something to do with the angle of the wastgate actuator to the push rod that opens it. My mate, broght a CGC turbo, same problem, it was ok on the bench, but as soon as it was bolted to the car, and the wastage rotaed round to fit the engine bay, it simply made boost and it could not be limited back.

mags33 Newbie

mags33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
check you have the hoses for your ebc plumbed in for internal gate, not external. There are three possible fittings on the solenoid unit, i think you want for internal the middle one and one of the side ones..check the apexi handbook for setup.

Hey guys thanks for the replys, the ebc should not come into play because the actuator arm is disconnected and I wired the wastegate open, so it shouldn't make boost, but it still does..

thanks again for you imput...

cheers mitch.

cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey guys thanks for the replys, the ebc should not come into play because the actuator arm is disconnected and I wired the wastegate open, so it shouldn't make boost, but it still does..

thanks again for you imput...

cheers mitch.

Woop,

Another one that does the same, unsolved mistery!

This is the 4th R33 that has this problem...

We have just about tried everything from dumping the exhaust to getting a new hks turbo! still boost creep at 5000rpm...

Same thing with the wastegate flap fully open, makes 15 or so psi!

Oh with the flap fully open it will make some boost should be a max of 7psi at around 7000rpm... but 14 and more aint normal.

Edited by cameron

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...