Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

When my climate control changes from face to feet (between some modes) I hear clicking and clunking noises. I figure the servo gears are jumping because some flap/duct has come loose. Maybe even some foam/rumbber seal jamming in there.

Does anyone know if this unit can be pulled apart for me to look at and repair or is it a sealed unit that has to be replaced. I figure the whole dash has to be pulled apart? Any ideas or comments welcome.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142200-climate-contr-duct-flap-noise/
Share on other sites

my car does the same thing. from what i've read in a previous post somewhere it has something to do with the contact points on the vent flaps. because the cars are fairly old the motor doesn't receive a signal to stop trying to move the vent flap. you'd probably have to pull the whole dash out to try and fix it. i find if you leave it blowing towards your face and dont change between the two settings it doesn't make too much noise.

my car does the same thing. from what i've read in a previous post somewhere it has something to do with the contact points on the vent flaps. because the cars are fairly old the motor doesn't receive a signal to stop trying to move the vent flap. you'd probably have to pull the whole dash out to try and fix it. i find if you leave it blowing towards your face and dont change between the two settings it doesn't make too much noise.

Yep that's right, if I leave it fixed in any mode (usually face + feet) it's fine. It's only if you leave the CCtrl off then it cycles through on startup. If it's just contact points then it may be an easy fix as long as I can get to them easily. I want to sell this car someday so it has to all be 100% working. It's the only thing on my car not working properly.

  • 1 month later...

I've heard a simliar buzzing from mine, I also get a puff of hot air if i gun it sometimes. Most noticible on the freeway. Anyone get that too? I reckon its gotta be either the air mix flap or the heater tap/controller thats built into the heater core on my car.

Deren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...